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Sword beyond beginners level (image heavy)


oma

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This tutorial is available as a free PDF. Click here to open or download the PDF

 

repairs done

moderate skill levels.

It seems very long as I've put in many pictures of even basic steps.

I will say this you must already know how to add plugins and how to add layers, merge layers, and use the move pixels tools. Selecting and deselecting items and layers. You will also use a gradiant so if you need to brush up on that F1 while you are in the paint.net program should direct you to the appropriate section for a quick review.

Much of this has been covered in other tuts but I see some of you are still having trouble translating what you learned in one tut to another application. . .

long list of plugins (some are in pkgs)

Align Object (also available in this plugin pack KrisVDM's Plugin Pack

Mirror

Outline Object (incluced in Pyrochilds pkg)

Curves+ (incluced in Pyrochilds pkg)

Bevel Selection

Random Mazes (incluced in MadJik's pkg)

Buttons (incluced in MadJik's pkg)

Shape3D

==================================

The sword blade is done in three sections

a) bottom blade

B) top blade

c) engraving.

----

d) the langet is the piece that keeps the blade from slipping thru the scabbard

----

e) two piece handgurard

---

f) handle

----

g) buttons

----

===================================================

so lets get you started

start with a 800 x 1200 transparent canvas (lost already? your screen opened with a white canvas! at a different size.

a.jpg

so that takes care of the size problem

now just add a layer, the button looks like this :AddNewLayer: and then highlight the white layer and hit the little x button . you should now have that checkerboard background.

A --- Bottom Blade

draw a blue line brush width 45 90Degrees 8 inches long.

watch the side ruler on the left start at 4" mark and go down to the 12" mark.

1.jpg

align that across the page. (Horizontal only)

2.jpg

I zoomed in to 500% just to see this real clear.

zoom ??? well look up top of screen see those magnifying glasses with the drop down box.

Use the rectangle select tool and draw your self a selection box down near the bottom of your blue line.

by using the right button on your mouse you can rotate that box

pay attention to the two end points I indicated on this picture below . they need to be outside of the blue line

after you have it lined up properly use the sissors and get rid of that portion of the blue line

3a.jpg

4.jpg

you can do both sides using the same method

my hands are not the steadiest so I like to use the mirror plugin

5.jpg

next we give that blade an edge using the outline plugin by Pyrochild.

I use this one here as it has an angle adjustment.

7.jpg

this next portion turning it to metal was from the tut by ASH. He used an oval but it is good

on any shape.

it is a basic must learn..... for shiny metal! so I'll repeat it here using a different

shape than what ASH used. (for those that follow my pictures I used this also in the coins)

conditional hue change as I've marked on the picture below.

8.jpg

then change it to black and white

9.jpg

in the tut by ASH he used brightness and contrast

on this sword I'd like you to use Curves+

9b.jpg

bottom blade is now done

B -- Top Blade

make a duplicate layer of that bottom blade

click the move pixels tool hold shift key down and drag the top corner inwards.

10.jpg

roughly align it over top of the bottom blade you can adjust a bit in next step

I'll tell you what to watch for

C -- Engraving decoration top layer

rotate your entire image for this step

11.jpg

at this point recheck you alignment and move around decrease sizea bit more etc if required

12.jpg

add a transparent layer and type your text.

in this example I've used wingdings2 as most people have that on their computors

this is alternate "g""h" I typed it in yellow different colors give different results

this is because of the curves steps I do latter. so for now use these colors

watch where you start and end it should be centred on the top blade and not

go past the beginning and end of the top blade.

13.jpg

outline this text

14.jpg

and change it to black and white

15.jpg

rotate your layer back 90 degrees counter clockwise

I found it wasn't shiny enough so I added more curves+

16.jpg

the blade is now complete you can merge all three layers together

D -- Langet

add a transparent layer

and select a rectangle around the top portion

make sure you cover that join of the two blades.

17.jpg

fill with a linear gradiant.

18.jpg

deselect that rectangle now and then outline this gradiant (make sure you don't use black or gray or white)

I used brown here. You want to be able to select this outline next step.

19.jpg

change tolerance to 0

wand the outline section only(the brown)

and bevel this selection

20.jpg

E --- Handguard

set your colors to red primary and secondary blue

add a transparent layer

bucket fill the layer with blue

run the maze1 plugin at these settings (make sure you uncheck the square maze box!)

21.jpg

its metal folks so we better run the conditional hue plug in same as doing the blade above

remeber its changing the fade vertical and the slider under hue range.

see the little thumb up the top of this next picture you want it something like this

doesn't have to be exact.

run shape 3d on this layer at the settings marked in the picture below

don't forget to uncheck the light box

22.jpg

add another transparent layer

bucket fill with blue

run the maze 1 plug in same settings as last time.

you forget those settings look up two pictures ago

got it? (quantity 92 margin 68 uncheck square maze)

this time you need to run the 3d shape back to back on the same layer

first time at the settings on the left giving a circle (those are all default except change the light box)

on this same layer run 3d shape again change the full sphere to half sphere

and change as the picture on the right

23.jpg

so you have two pieces for the hand guard move them as shown

the round portion goes tucked in behind the curved hand guard piece.

merge these two together

24.jpg

change it to metal (adjustments>black and white)

25.jpg

adjust the contrast black and white if you so desire.

F -- Handle

add a transparent layer

use selection oval

and fill with gradiant two tones red

darker at top.

26.jpg

use the duplicate layer button and make 3 more (4 total)

27.jpg

now drag the layers down one after another so you look like you have

handgrips . then merge them together

28.jpg

clik anywhere outside the handle on a transparent part with the move pixels tool

and drag that handle in size porportion to the sword blade

the handle layer now gets moved down

see over on the right in this picture

it shows the layers top one is handleguard, next one down is the langet, one below that

is the blade your handle you just made should be on the bottom

G --- Decorations and bling

once again add a transparent layer

buttons ---- poor man's diamonds

plugin settings as in picture (default size just change the colors add a text

if you want...this example I left plain)

you are making three of the same thing

using move pixel tool resize and position as picture shows

29.jpg

DONE!

resize and save as .png

30.jpg

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I've noticed that some of you wish to put this sword against black backgrounds. make sure you don't loose that crisp sharp edge.

here is one real quick method of avoiding that.

its to back light that sword with out being too harsh looking.

backgroundproblems.jpg

on the layer with your sword wand out side the sword and control +I

set color to yellow

add a transparent layer between the sword layer and the background layer.

your selection should still be active fill that selection with the yellow (if you've done it correctly it looks same shape as your sword)

zoom twist at default settings

dontloosetheblackedgebackgroundt-2.jpg

gassiaun blur

dontloosetheblackedgebackgroundt-1.jpg

you can notch down the transparency at this point but see you don't loose the edge but your mind still thinks and reads this as a solid black background ad your sword looks more glowing. Just now looking at this picture below I still see a few lost edges. I'd just use move pixels tool and slide down the layer of yellow so all the edges show better. OR I might just do another little bit of red in another transparent layer and blur that out with a radial blur at that spot.

my backgrounds even the dark blackish ones are about 10 layers.

dontloosetheblackedgebackgroundtipp.jpg

request for a different style handle

radial gradiant layer two tones red add transparent layer and do a hex grid (set both sliders at around 26) colors I used here darker red primary color is opaque 255 secondary color 0 transparency

then do a drop shadow layer of the hexgrid so this drop shadow layer is in between your gradiant layer and the original top hex grid layer. Look over on left side layers box.

anotherhandle1.jpg

merge

shape 3d its just bullet shape. watch the end ball size over right hand side of the UI and the light changes. keep track of the minus and plus numbers.

anotherhandle2-1.jpg

anotherhandle3-1.jpg

new transparent layer draw a small oval at base of handle

anotherhandle4a.jpg

outline at an angle.

anotherhandle4.jpg

wand the outline only you may have to jiggle around with the transparency depending on how much color differential you used for the outline.

add a transparent layer and bevel

anotherhandle5.jpg

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That's phenomenal, Oma. Excellent.

 

The Doctor: There was a goblin, or a trickster, or a warrior... A nameless, terrible thing, soaked in the blood of a billion galaxies. The most feared being in all the cosmos. And nothing could stop it, or hold it, or reason with it. One day it would just drop out of the sky and tear down your world.
Amy: But how did it end up in there?
The Doctor: You know fairy tales. A good wizard tricked it.
River Song: I hate good wizards in fairy tales; they always turn out to be him.

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Hooray! Good for you Oma. :D:D

Mmm, - now lets see about those plug ins.(scratches head)

An easier way to get the transparent background at the beginning is Ctrl-A then hit the Delete button on your PC.

Just thought I`d mention it. Hope you don`t mind :wink:

 

 

Please feel free to visit my Gallery on PDNFans

And my Alternatives to PDN

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thanks David I hope its in correct section and I put proper difficulty level

ciao OMA

I'd say so!

 

The Doctor: There was a goblin, or a trickster, or a warrior... A nameless, terrible thing, soaked in the blood of a billion galaxies. The most feared being in all the cosmos. And nothing could stop it, or hold it, or reason with it. One day it would just drop out of the sky and tear down your world.
Amy: But how did it end up in there?
The Doctor: You know fairy tales. A good wizard tricked it.
River Song: I hate good wizards in fairy tales; they always turn out to be him.

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Oma, I'm happy you have the "meat and potatoes" tutorial. It's just outstanding. What I think is funny is that you have very similar processes in PDN as I do. :P I've never thought about using the Windings font as a decoration. Again, as I said before, you're probably not human or something; you're amazing! :wink:

sig-1.png
Don't spit into the well, you might drink from it later. -----Yiddish Proverb

Glossy Galaxy Ball---How to Make Foliage
My Gallery

PDN Fans--My DA

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Brilliantly written tutorial oma, with a great outcome :D :idea:

glad you think so thanks for the vote of confidence. It took me a bit to simplify from my original and get a decent looking finished product. I needed it simple enough for those that want a bit of a challenge, yet not too intimidating that no one uses it.

Hooray! Good for you Oma. :D:D

Mmm, - now lets see about those plug ins.(scratches head)

An easier way to get the transparent background at the beginning is Ctrl-A then hit the Delete button on your PC.

Just thought I`d mention it. Hope you don`t mind :wink:

yes that is the easiest way and is how I actually do this step. The reason I chose to show this way is for the beginners. You would not beleive the number of PM's I get just asking me the simple question how do I change the size and where? and how do you know its a transparent screen?

but I will add your little tip into the tut as a side bar, everystep a newbie can learn is a bonus.

ciao

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Awesome tut! Seriously!! I LOVE it, so here's my go. (Since it's too big, it's a thumbnail!)

th_Sword.jpg

[url=http://s461.photobucket.com/albums/qq333/minoeman/?action=view&current=Sword.jpg][img=http://i461.photobucket.com/albums/qq333/minoeman/th_Sword.jpg][/url]

We should all be... Alive...

.........................................

40945_1368895504325_1289821857_30902863_6462857_n.jpg

.........................................

|Lightning|My Dome|Pokemon sig tut|

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Thank you so much Oma for this tut. Now I can sharpen my skill at making a sword, pun intended.

*goes back and watch UNC/VT game*

Officially retired from this forum. Have a nice day.

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@Minoeman very good job. you were able to follow that tut to the T. no spots of trouble? any places you think I need to beef up the tut instructions?

Thank you so much Oma for this tut. Now I can sharpen my skill at making a sword, pun intended.

*goes back and watch UNC/VT game*

I won't ask if you are North Carolina fan or Virginia Tech., I just say enjoy the game.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with in the way of a sharpened sword. .

ciao

OMA

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Actually, the tut was great! I was able to follow it perfectly.

The reason why I made it look red, like the one in the tutorial, is because red's my favorite color.

We should all be... Alive...

.........................................

40945_1368895504325_1289821857_30902863_6462857_n.jpg

.........................................

|Lightning|My Dome|Pokemon sig tut|

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Actually, the tut was great! I was able to follow it perfectly.

The reason why I made it look red, like the one in the tutorial, is because red's my favorite color.

red's one of my favourite colors as well, and I also love blue.

I just had a look at the bigger version you posted in your gallery , very good.

ciao

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but I will add your little tip into the tut as a side bar, everystep a newbie can learn is a bonus.

ciao

Thanks Oma . I`m honored to be included in such an awesome tut. :D:D

Here is my go. I cheated a bit with the buttons and Googled a nice ruby pic instead. I thought it deserved the genuine article as its such a good tut. :wink:

I`ve also included the sword in my latest pic in my gallery. :D

GemstoneSword.png

 

 

Please feel free to visit my Gallery on PDNFans

And my Alternatives to PDN

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but I will add your little tip into the tut as a side bar, everystep a newbie can learn is a bonus.

ciao

Thanks Oma . I`m honored to be included in such an awesome tut. :D:D

Here is my go. I cheated a bit with the buttons and Googled a nice ruby pic instead. I thought it deserved the genuine article as its such a good tut. :wink:

I sorted out the imperfections with the handle but Photobucket keeps uploading the first version. Strange.

I`ve also included the sword in my latest pic in my gallery. :D

that's truly well done!

oh I'm so glad you added a pic I was beginning to think the tut wasn't written well enough

I'm glad you reminded me of the gems I'd forgotten to add the links to Ash gemstone tuts into the spot where I used buttons (poor mans gems) as an alternate.

what font is that you used? looks like an eagle?

I can see some little pixels around the spot where the two smaller rubies were resized. I usually avoid this by moving the selection cutting and adding to another layer and then delete the old layer the gem was on.

or you can just wand a transparent portion of that layer (makes them show up at 0 tolerance) and control +i and use eraser.

re the photobucket after you delete out the old version of Medievalsword you can add the new version if and only if you make a change to the name somehow. try adding the new version as Medievalsword2

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Thanks for the tips on resizing. I never noticed the pixels around the Ruby`s. Thanks for pointing it out. I`ll try a different name for the sword.

Done that and it uploaded fine so I`ve swapped them round. The font is El&Font Gohtic! from Dafont.com. :wink:

 

 

Please feel free to visit my Gallery on PDNFans

And my Alternatives to PDN

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th_7.jpg

When you use outline object to get the outline of the sword, it might be worth mentioning to outline in a different colour to the sword - the screenshot shows that, but people try experimenting, and may end up getting confused if the difference in "chrome-y" effect isn't visible later if they've outlined in a similar colour. Just a subtle hint. =)

Its an awesome tut though, i'll have a shot at it when i have time.. 2.5 months to GCSE's... :shock: =(

Merry Christmas

 

.::.My Gallery.::.Make Gold Text!.::.

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th_7.jpg

When you use outline object to get the outline of the sword, it might be worth mentioning to outline in a different colour to the sword - the screenshot shows that, but people try experimenting, and may end up getting confused if the difference in "chrome-y" effect isn't visible later if they've outlined in a similar colour. Just a subtle hint. =)

Its an awesome tut though, i'll have a shot at it when i have time.. 2.5 months to GCSE's... :shock: =(

great point. sometimes when you write these tuts it is difficult to see where someone might get hung up on something what we just know without thinking about it. will be including in as a tip ASAP.

ciao and thanks for the heads up.

OMA

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very nicely done.

thanks for the comments on my tut. thanks for doing this tut. and showing me your picture.

do you still have that as a PDN? When you put it against a black background you loose the edge of the sword in its dark spots. when something like that happens in my pictures. I usually make some sort of background contrast at that spot.

I just added some notes at the end of the tut..... about variations and background things to watch for. check post directly below original tut.

Personally for me the proof of how successful this tut has been is when I start recognizing and seeing items around the gallery not exactly the same but using some of the same principals.

ciao thanks for stopping by

OMA

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Oma , you have already shown us a good way to render shiny metal and how versatile S3D can be.

I`m sure similar methods could be used to render glass, although I havn`t tried yet. :wink:

 

 

Please feel free to visit my Gallery on PDNFans

And my Alternatives to PDN

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