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Ego Eram Reputo

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Posts posted by Ego Eram Reputo

  1. Well there is always the good old stone texture tutorial (now in Tutorial+ submenu Textures) where you might find some ideas. However these generally don't look good if you then apply a transformation like Shape3D.

    to work around this I generally do the shape3D in greyscale then use that to give the flat texture some depth - something like the flag tutorial here: viewtopic.php?p=181513#p181513

  2. I had a play with what I had suggested, and here is the result:

    LeatherTexture.jpg

    Here is the technique I used:

      1. New canvas of your chosen size.
      2. Set primary color to CEB175
      3. Set secondary color to B59048
      4. Render clouds @ defaults (Layer1)
      5. Layer1: Brightness & Contrast – contrast -70
      6. Create new layer @ again render clouds @ default (Layer2)
      7. Change blend mode of Layer2 to OVERLAY
      8. Create new layer between the two existing ones (Layer3)
      9. On Layer3: Effects>Render>VARICOSE @ Q190, W1, A16, Q4
      10. Repeat steps 7 and 8 to create another layer with lines (Layer4). This time change the RESEED value when rendering varicose so that the lines are different
      11. Rotate Layer4 by 90 degrees (Layers>Rotate/Zoom - angle 90)
      12. Select all (control+A) on Layer4 and use the move tool to stretch the sides out so the lines meet the edges of the canvas.
      13. Merge Layer3 & Layer4 (lets call it Layer5)
      14. Layer5: Effects>stylize>majority Radius 2, color tolerance 127
      15. Layer5: Smart blur Radius 9, strength 0.04
      16. Layer2 (the top most layer): opacity to 125.
      17. Merge middle layer (Layer5) down onto Layer1
      18. Merge remaining layer (Layer2) down onto the lower layer
      19. Save

    Note that this texture is not a "grainy" as your book. To achieve darker colors I'd create a new layer & render clouds with darker colors after step 18. With a bit of trial and error, you might achieve something like this:

    LeatherTexture2.jpg Secondary color B5691E, render clouds with high roughness, layer opacity to 110 or so.

  3. Congratulations Oma!

    I'm not going to claim any sort of expertise here, but surely the fact that you're going to print onto a textured canvas makes the need for very high DPI a little less? I'm wondering if there really is a need to go as high as 300dpi.

    Case in point: A friend of mine (who wins awards for amateur photography) sent me this image:

     

    Poppies.jpg

     

    As you can see, the image is a reasonable size (10x8 inches), but the resolution is only 96dpi.

    I've printed a number of images from a canvas of 800x600 @ 96dpi, these look very nice at a standard 6x4 (inch) photo size.

    I hope this is of some use to you. Good luck!

  4. You're going to want to first scan in all the parts. Saving each as a separate file might be a good idea, because scanner integration with PDN is a bit constrained.

    Open the first image in PDN, then sequentially import the rest of the images using the >"Import from file" from the LAYERS menu.

    Next figure out the approximate canvas size you will require (add the image dimensions from each layer) and RESIZE the canvas to that size (IMAGE>Canvas size). You can always repeat this step later if you need it to be larger.

    For each layer, use the MOVE tool :MoveTool: to reposition the layer so that each layer lines up with the others.

    Save the image as a *.PDN (as this preserves the layers so they can be repositioned if required).

  5. I've had to overhaul one website created this way, and I don't wish to do it again :( The result was OK in terms of visual hang-together, but sucked when the owner wanted to shift/replace one item because everything on the page had to be rejigged.

    It was incredibly large to download each page too. The UK government standards recommend a 40kb limit for homepages (yes 40kb!) and you just won't get near that with this technique.

    I recommend you avoid the technique. Learn CSS instead and target your images to the important areas only, with text being the main information source.

  6. ....I would like to know how to render human flesh and cloth.

    there was a discussion on flesh a while back. Let me see if I can find it...,(can't, but will keep looking).

    It would also help if I knew how to render rocks, grass, sand, and water. If anyone knows how to render any of these, please tell me.

    We got rocks, stone, grass and lots more in the tutorial+ section (look under Textures). Water can be accomplished with plugins, or there is a spilled water tutorial: viewtopic.php?p=220244#p220244. Another bit of reading to do with water might be this technique: viewtopic.php?p=113407#p113407

  7. Paint.Net is an image editor/enhancement tool, not a website creator. For website templates you'll need to know (X)HTML and CSS and find a tool to edit them (try PSPad - it's free).

    If you're talking about creating the graphics for websites, the best advice I can give you is to download a free template and then replace all the graphics with your own creations which should be the same size as the image you're replacing.

  8. personly i cant see the point in splitting it up as it was around 512kb to begin with so if you couldnt load that then you would have to be on dial up or something old

    I use Opera, Safari, Firefox & IE7. None of them work very fast because I live in a rural area where broadband is simply not available :cry:

    512kb at 4.5kb/s is still a lot of time to be sitting waiting & staring.

    David is right, the tutorial should be broken into text and images to save on bandwidth.

  9. Okay, how about a default of 0 for all effects, and having PN remember each effect's last setting? That seems like the best of all possibilities.

    I (and there may be others as well) sometimes don't use a value of zero to avoid divide by zero errors. Sometimes it's necessary, sometimes not. Would you ever consider rendering clouds with a scale of zero? Better to have the default set to something meaningful & avoid having to reset the slider every time from a meaningless value. Yes?

  10. Two posts below this one the same question was asked: Eraser Opacity. In the replies, Mike Ryan spake thus:

    Change the alpha level of your secondary color.

    He means that the opacity of the eraser tool is linked to the transparency of the secondary color. Simply lowering the Transparency-Alpha level in the expanded color window has the effect of lowering the erasers severity.

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