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About IHaveNoName

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    2018 Rookie of the Year

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  1. IHaveNoName

    PDN Repair 'Tool'

    Thanks for the info. There was a strange coincidence yesterday. https://forums.getpaint.net/topic/113789-paintnet-crashes-on-start-up/?tab=comments#comment-554679 Pixey suggested using the repair option. Is the error message shown there the prompt to repair null54 described?
  2. I've meant to ask about this before: I'm inquisitive and going through the files in the PDN installation I've noticed there are three different files named in relation to PDN Repair: an .exe, a .config and a .pdb. In Windows Control Panel > Programs > Paint.net there is no manual repair option available unlike some other programs, just uninstall. The .config file suggests that the PDNRepair.exe is or may be running every time on start up. Is that correct? Just curious to know when and under what circumstances it runs because neither Process Hacker 2 or AutoRuns show anything other than the main PDN.exe running when you boot the program.
  3. IHaveNoName

    Paint.net Crashes on start up

    I doubt it is this but MS .NET Framework was updated earlier this week as part of the regular monthly, in this case February 2019, "Patch Tuesday" updates. So I'd check if that was auto-updated on your system yesterday. I did a search for any reported problems before I updated and have done another quick one just now but found no post about anything so far. What I can confirm is that the most recent PDN works fine on a Win7 64bit PC with that new update but, of course, it may be a different matter for other Windows versions.
  4. IHaveNoName

    OotF#34 - Aquarium Fish - WINNERS.

    I'll add my appreciation too. I assume they all have to be done from a blank canvas but whatever the case I'd no idea you could do complex looking graphics quite as impressive as all of those just using PDN.
  5. https://www.pvladov.com/2013/10/increase-intel-hd-graphics-dedicated-video-memory.html?m=1
  6. IHaveNoName

    I can't uninstall Paint.net

    The intended way to uninstall it is to use the Control Panel > Programs > Programs and Features > Uninstall or change a program. That is for Windows 7, XP is very similar and I suspect 8/8.1 and 10 are not much different. You only need to use that tool MS tool toe_head2001 suggested if you're having difficulty uninstalling or installing a program. From the sound of it you just do not know how to uninstall PDN. Personally I would always use a tool designed for the purpose when a program does not include its own uninstaller and use that as the default method for most programs. Revo Uninstaller Free or the slightly less noob user friendly BCUninstaller are two good examples. If done at the same time, by using the advanced uninstall options, they will remove the leftovers ie. registry entries etc which even the program's own uninstaller will probably not uninstall. It is those leftovers that usually cause the problem that require the use of that MS tool.
  7. That solution would be ideal but I suppose if nobody else is interested then there would not be much incentive to do it.
  8. Is there any way to get PDN to change the default New image Primary and Secondary Background colours (Black/White) to something else permanently? I ask because I'd actually prefer it to start with a totally transparent background on launch. Of course it is easy enough to add a new layer which, by default, is transparent and delete the Background layer but as I am having to do this fairly frequently I was wondering why you can not change those defaults in the settings? Perhaps there is some good reason I hadn't considered but wouldn't it be a useful feature?
  9. And remember if you start a New image the background will, by default, be the secondary colour ie. opaque white. That means if you use the centerline.dll at that point the alignment lines will actually have an opaque white background and so won't be much use that way. As ReMake recommends always use the alignment tools in a new layer where the default background is 100% transparent, ideally place it as the top layer of your stack. Then you know where that layer is and can easily find, disable or delete it before saving or flattening.
  10. I didn't even remember the tools I had that can do this and more. This thread has bought it to my attention so now I might remember to use them. Thanks for that. Most of the time I've drawn composition allignment aids manually in a separate top layer and or using one of the other grid plugins often in different layers, adjusting the vertical/horizontal spacing as required. But the plugin I already actually have, actually designed for the purpose, and will try to remember to use from now on for such basic allignement tasks is the one mentioned by welshblue: CompoGrids.dll which came as part of Red Ochre's plugin in pack. It also helps in remembering where it is by being installed in the Effects > Composition sub-menu, arguably the most obvious place for such tools. That it is installed in Effects > Render is the only criticism I'd aim at the xod's Guidelines.dll, mentioned by others here too. It is an even more sophisticated alignment tool, particularly as it allows you to move X and Y positioning separately off centre if required. But there are good reasons for having both those mentioned or just Remake's centerlines.dll if all that is wanted is the simplest solution.
  11. IHaveNoName

    [SOLVED] Can't uninstall PDN

    You reinstalled Windows just to get the PDN installer working!!!? https://forums.getpaint.net/topic/113681-paintnet-installation-issues-no-setup-wizzard/?do=findComment&comment=553336
  12. IHaveNoName

    Photo too orange

    A long, long time ago once or twice I actually used a professional level 35mm slide copying set up ie. for film to film copies which included a very low level pre-fogging flash to reduce the contrast that the copying process would inevitably cause. I think it may even have had built in colour correction filters like a colour enlarger which BTW could also be adapted for copying purposes too. It was so long ago I can't even remember the name of that copy system but it was widely used by professional studios/darkrooms and amateurs with money at the time. Us aspiring photographers on a budget had to make use of just those ^ sorts of cheaper alternatives. I had a BPM manual bellows + 50mm enlarger lens and and purpose designed 35mm slide holder. There were also problems using 'clear' frosted acrylic sheet for diffusing the lighting as such plastics always introduced colour casts which had to be corrected with CC filters for true colour accuracy. Working out what the colour cast was and how much correction was needed was a skill in itself. Digital photography with white balance and easy colour correction before and after the image (file) creation have consigned those sorts of problems thankfully, mostly, to history.
  13. IHaveNoName

    Photo too orange

    I'd too suggest trying that Color Balance +v1.1 plugin which allows you to make very large corrections to Magenta/Cyan/Yellow rendering selectively for highlights, mid-tones and shadows. But getting that skin tone anywhere near correct even for the warmth of the apparent afternoon sunshine and keeping the (white?) T-Shirt neutral will be a seriously difficult task. Beyond me, I've just tried using that plugin and the setting HyRez suggested and my own practical knowledge of photographic colour printing and I couldn't find any settings that produced an acceptable skin tone, kept the T-Shirt white and indeed create any general semblance of a natural looking result.. I can't believe the original Kodachrome slide actually looks like that; dye stability and colour accuracy were its big selling points. Unless the slide has been left in the sun for a long time and is genuinely that orange I'd go back and rescan it and adjust the color balance or use whatever color controls the scanner supports. As it is I'd guess that there has been some digital enhancement to bring out facial detail. Looking at the backlit hair it suggests the face of the subject was likely in significant shadow with only the white T-Shirt, clouds and whatever other nearby reflective surfaces there were providing the fill-in. There's certainly no indication in the eyes of any fill-in flash. Quality dedicated photo-scanners like those made by Epsom include all sorts of colour and image enhancement/restoration options which I'd try before attempting to fix such problems on a poor quality image file scan using PDN.
  14. IHaveNoName

    Paint Bucket Question

    An old photographic printing method of doing this sort of this might still have relevance here. I've used it myself for replacing the backgrounds around relatively simple shaped foreground objects but it does work. The technique is to make a high contrast mask of the foreground ie. change the image to b/w and then adjust the brightness/contrast to get just pure black and white. There are several ways of using this mask but in this case, with a plain white background wanted, you simply use the Magic Wand tool to cut out the black part of the mask and merge the white remainder with the original image. The Magic Wand cuts the outline far more accurately when using a high contrast mask. The problem is that the tonal make up of the original picture may not lend itself to this technique. You can lose fine detail at the edges very easily and you often need to do quite a bit of work retouching the mask itself. You had just the same problem when this technique was used in photographic printing most typically adding new skies for landscapes but for isolating a regular shaped object on a plain background for pack shots etc it was effective. The advantage you have now with digital graphics is that, unlike film, alignment of the mask is not an issue and you can get pretty much a pixel perfect result with suitable subject matter.
  15. IHaveNoName

    How to make custom stripe

    Just the white 'twisted' band or do you need the 'scan' line look and varying red background too? I just had a rough go at it and this is what I came up with. Unfortunately the original picture is not good enough to see exactly what is going on, whether the lines on the twisted band are actually transparent and whether the folded part is outlined in some way etc. It was more complicated than I thought but to start with you need a two tone graduated background. I used the darkest and lightest red from the original provided. For the lines (if required) use the Render > Gridlines plugin with horizontal spacing set to 0. Put the latter in another layer to the graduated background so you can keep it on top of everything. I'd hide it whilst doing the rest of the image but it can help with the positioning of the various elements at certain points too. You could build it from, I think, five separate white quadrilateral shapes, duplicating the four that are repeated but that seemed more complicated than the way I approached this. That is to think of it as two main quadrilateral shapes: a white rectangle and a white parallelogram. In another layer and, obviously you have to work out the exact scale/size for them, a solid white rectangle was drawn and then, in a layer on top, the two parallel lines of appropriate positioning and thickness added. I used the Shapes > Rectangle > Outline option for that and the lines made the colour of the darkest part of the graduated background. Reason for that is when you colour cut the lines later any inaccuracy in the edge will disappear into the background. Once done merged the two down then duplicate that so you have two rectangles with parallel lines on separate layers. Position overlapping, as in the original, with the bottom coloured line of one and the top line of the other joining up to run across the exact centre of the canvas. Keep them in separate layers. The next bit was the real pig. I tried using the Parallelogram from Shapes first and then the Distort > Oblique plugin on another copy of the rectangle layer and both cause problems. The latter in particular distorted the coloured lines making them thinner. The solution I used was simple but crude: use the rectangle outline option again to create a pair of parallel coloured lines the correct distance apart and then rotated them to line up at the correct angle with the coloured lines of the white rectangles in the layers below. Once done I copied the layer to get another pair of lines for the other side of the parallelogram. Vertical coloured lines were added for the right and left edges too. So you now have an outline parallelogram you can either fill in with white or put on a white background layer and cut to shape. Now using the Color > Cut Color (XMario) plugin cut out all the coloured lines in the three shape layers you now have ie. two rectangles and a parrallelogram. Then merge normally. Un-hide the gridlines and that should be it. Hope some of this is useful.