IHaveNoName

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Everything posted by IHaveNoName

  1. Yep, Drop Shadow, Object Shadow and Inner Shadow are all good. You can get some potentially useful shadow like effects from Object Bevel too. I also like using the crudest 'solution' too if I want crisp shadows. I just copy the text to a new lower layer, convert it to b/w and raise the contrast to get solid black and simply offset that as required. Just to be clear that does, of course, mean a new layer with a transparent background.
  2. Most of my gaming is retro now as I can afford a new current gen console or to upgrade my PC. Perfectly happy with this as I have a backlog of unplayed games some of which date back to before the turn of the century. Currently playing original Xbox Splinter Cell: Double Agent widely regarded as the last really good Splinter Cell game. Love stealth games, cut my teeth on PS Tenchu and went on to play most of its later iterations. Stealth highlights include Deus Ex, Thief: Deadly Shadows and I always enjoy a FPS where stealth is an option like the underrated game: XIII. Perversely I was and still am not a big fan of MGS, or at least the main games. For me where they soar to levels of sophisticated stealth and puzzle challenge gameplay you rarely see even now (Splinter Cell being a notable exception) are the 'VR' missions and challenge modes some of the games include like MGS2: Substance. Stealth and timing cleverly reduced to their purest levels.
  3. You can do much the same thing with Red Ochre's RecolourChoice plugin. Color Pick the paper background colour and set that as primary then change the plugin's setting for the replacement transparency colour (which can be anything ) to zero.
  4. I've often wondered whether it would be better if the tools and in particular that one could/should be set to reset automatically for each layer. That might be useful for some people but for me I'm happy how it is with the individual settings re-set option, if wanted, always available. On many occasions I've made setting changes to that tool (zoom, roll, rotate, pan) and actually want to apply those across several different layers but not every one. In the case of some other tools and plugins there can be half a dozen or more settings you've changed. The prospect of having it reset to default automatically and re-applying them for each layer does not thrill me in the least.
  5. But it has such a lot of features that you can forget what they are or how to do something unless you're using PDN on a daily basis. For a long time I kept the number of plugins I installed down to a bare minimum because I knew that would be an issue. I'm sure a lot of the 'solutions' I used and probably still use are catered for either within the main PDN tool-set or made far easier by using particular plugins. But in keeping it simple and maybe ignorant of those possibilities, arguably, you may actually learn more. IMHO too much choice is not always a good thing as it is easy lose focus on what you originally set out to do.
  6. I only learned here recently, after years of using PDN, that you can simply change the font size to whatever you want just by editing it in the font size box. I've never needed to use anything that ^ big but I imagined there was limit. I've just checked using the default canvas: 800x600 and the maximum size is 2000pts before it goes red, as HyReZ describes happens with a much larger canvas, too. So 2000pts does appears to be PDN's actual font size limit.
  7. I think this may be you are looking for:- https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows/windows-10-apps But I do not know why it should make any difference because the actual PDN download link is to the same location. The problem seems to be a signing in one. Maybe you only have one device (perhaps a Xbox) associated with your MS account and, apparently, to be able to download something from MS Windows Store you need a registered "applicable device". My guess is that if you register your PC ie. associate it with your MS account you'd be able to download PDN. A damned stupid system from start to finish whatever the cause.
  8. My thought is that you may have initially saved the files in an odd location particularly if you have other images open which are located elsewhere eg. you've imported a file into a new image and then copied what you were working on into that. It is easy just to click Save and not notice or realise you're saving it to the location the imported image came from. Subsequent saves (Save) will all be in that location too. I've done that sort of thing myself and had to use PDN's Open Recent menu option to find it again. Typically in my case where I collect a set of images as resources/inspiration prior to starting a particular project I might have sub-folders for backgrounds, objects, fonts etc inside the main folder. One of those is often where I've accidentally saved my work in progress. Hopefully you haven't cleaned your cache or however PDN saves that information. Use Open Recent to find your saved images and then make sure you do save them (Save As) somewhere you remember. Failing that: if you know the exact name of the image(s) you're looking for (and Windows is set to auto-index all drives) a simple desktop search could find the saved PDN files for you.
  9. The straight line being talked about is, from the sound of it not perpendicular on the canvas and therefore it is always going to be 'stepped'. In short it is actually not a straight line. That's the problem. If you try rotating a Selection box you will not be able to place it so it doesn't overlap pixels at the edge of the area to be erased which you want to keep. Result is the previously straight edge ends up raggedy. This is a theoretical solution, may not be practical or even work:- Rather than rotate the Selection box I'm wondering if it would be possible to rotate either part of or even the whole image so the line to be erased is perpendicular to the edge. That should result in a clean, genuinely straight line to the edge to be erased up/down/left/right. Erase that with the selection tool in the normal way then rotate the image or part of the image back to its original orientation. It may be necessary or at least a good idea to increase the canvas size so that the image can be rotated without clipping the corners.
  10. Are you sure you're using the Magic Wand on the correct layer or the Sampling Mode has not been changed. Those are the only others thing I can think of which might cause an effect like that. https://www.getpaint.net/doc/latest/MagicWand.html
  11. https://youtu.be/bhiHRMstPHM Currently being used for an Apple advert in the UK but like the whole album about as cutting edge as it gets. Admittedly a bit of a Marmite experience, you'll either love it or hate it. Conversely I'm not averse to a bit of more mainstream dance/pop and I heard this just today. A bit retro but I like it and it helps that Madison Beer is quite................pleasant. https://youtu.be/p6ULvPFPLIY
  12. Looking at the image problem it seems to me that maybe the Tolerance setting had been adjusted at some point. Could you have adjusted it for your original session and forgotten to apply the same setting when you re-opened the image? If you closed PDN and then reopened it for the second session all the default tool settings would have returned. No idea about the security check matter: I would have gone with "five" as the question asks how many hours ie. "hours" should not be included in the answer. The question is apparently in lower case and does not use numbers so using "five" seems logical. But these sort of catchpa questions are often flawed - they often say type what you see and there will be two number sets but if you do as instructed it gets rejected. They want a single set of numbers. It is probably something stupid like that or maybe you need to refresh the page inbetween attempts rather than just deleting and replacing the answer.
  13. There are loads of plugins that will do this job very easily. I think the problem with the basic Sepia tool and a line drawing is that difference between 100% black lines and the very dark brown of the Sepia tool is difficult to see on screen. The Sepia 2 plugin is better as you can adjust the intensity but it colours the white areas as well which might not be what you want. The Manual Color plugin works well particularly if you want a particular sepia hue - you just set black (000000) as the primary colour and the sepia hue you want (4B1E00 is a good warm brown) as secondary. There is some colouring of the white areas but it is more subtle than the Sepia 2 tool and can be minimized if you just up the contrast afterwards. The Recolor Choice plugin does a similar job with the same primary secondary colour combo. You may have to adjust the tolerance and transparency settings for best results but these extra options can be used creatively. Boltbaits' Color Balance tool can be use too. It will tone the white areas but again use of contrast can bring it back to full white but actually a sepia image often looks better on a slightly tinted white background. I've not used it much myself but a quick test I did shows the Duotone Ink On Paper plugin looks especially good for this job because if you adjust the sliders for the primary and secondary colours practically any tone from b/w to full sepia is very simply achieved without it appearing to affect the white background at all. In silver based photographic printing warm toned papers ie. ones which had a more cream coloured paper base than pure white were often used for subtle or even dramatic sepia effects. You could get all sorts of different sepia tones by varying the developer/development technique/time/temperature and toner formula. They often affected the paper base tone too. In other words if these line drawing are to used for cards think about the tone of the white base not just the line art itself.
  14. If the image in the OP is the one they are talking about then you can do an acceptable job on it in under 3 minutes with little more than just the Magic Wand tool. Initial Tolerance setting around 38% on the full area white isolates most of the vehicle from the background very cleanly. Any more than 38% and you risk the selection spreading to include the bright front bumper highlights and other highlights adjacent to the white background. After cutting it out at 38% you can concentrate on the shadow areas which require different Tolerance settings depending on their tone but you can isolate and remove most of it easily all though some edge detail may be lost on the tyres. Once done, zoom in about 300% and erase any 'loose' groups of pixels left in the background areas and clean up/retouch the edges around the bottom of the tyres and the foot pedal. The shape of them makes this pretty easy. Finally add a separate all white background layer below it and that should be la fin.
  15. It could be prolonged rendering time - I have 8GB of RAM but I do not use a separate GPU on this machine, 'just' the built in Intel HD with it set to use 512MB dedicated memory. It is fine for most of the the sorts of things I do on this PC but I have noticed with PDN and biggish images with multiple layers (12+) that it noticeably slows down some operations. But I was using an 13 year old Dell laptop previously with 1GB RAM and which had a hugely powerful dedicated 32MB Radeon Mobile GPU. With PDN it was slow, you could see the changes being rendered like a curtain coming down the screen, but it did not stop it working. The laptop Ralf2018 is using may well not have lots of RAM or cutting edge on board or dedicated graphics but it would have to be very low power indeed to render drop shadows so slowly he thought they were not working. Why just drop shadows? There may be something wrong with it, the drivers or the settings but it is best to check first that the plugin is actually being used correctly. User mistakes are always the most likely explanation and there is no shame in admitting it if that is the case here - we've all been there.
  16. The wrong layer being used was my first thought too, that or trying to add drop shadows to an already flattened image ie. text and background merged. As in the example below:- Top text: magenta drop shadows added to text in Layer 1 of two (Background + Layer 1). Bottom text: Layer 1 merged down into Background layer first then new text added to that and same drop shadow settings applied to whole image. Result: it looks like drop shadows are not working and they probably are not simply because they're trying to be applied to the full image rather than an object in a transparent background layer above the background as intended.
  17. ^ You forgot to mention one thing: the easiest way to select a perfectly circular area rather than an ellipse you need to hold down Shift whilst using that tool which is actually called Ellipse Select Same thing applies when drawing a circle using the Shapes tool. On the just posted matter:- It sounds as if you want to create just a circular image. Start a new image and add a new layer. That will be be totally transparent. Delete the default white background layer. Now use the Shapes tool, solid circle, option in the colour you want and draw it on that transparent layer as I've just described. Anything you want to add to the image: create a new layer above the circle background. BoltBait's advice just posted is another way of doing the same thing.
  18. A download issue is indeed a completely different from an install issue. Any problem with a download is due to something else. I'd guess it was/is most likely a Windows Store problem ie. you've downloaded it once and the second download is being blocked because of that. As others have said there should be nothing preventing you downloading from the dotPDN Host as many times as you want even to the same location as most browsers download tools or download mangers will simply rename the download (1), (2) etc etc if there is already one of the same name present in that download location. BTW Good coffee is actually grotesquely expensive in most parts of the world.
  19. I've been a genuine Big Bang Theory fan since it was first shown here in the UK on E4. It went off quite a bit at the end of Season 7 and much of Season 8 but it was still worth watching and in the last four seasons it got back to something like its old self although they were clearly running out of ideas about where certain characters' storylines were going, Raj in particular. That's when more of the peripheral funny characters like Stuart, Bert the geologist and Zac Penny's ex-boyfriend took up some of the slack. The inherent drama and comedy potential in Penny and Leonard's relationship was also pretty much torpedoed when they finally got married. However that was successfully replaced by the 'ShAmy' as the primary comedy/drama motor and which I thought still worked well for laughs even after they were married. TBBT was at its best in the first 6 seasons, the invention, performances, wonderful cameos from some amazing celebrities and, for me, most importantly, the quality of the writing was in another league to most current US sitcoms we see here in the UK. One of my favourite examples of the great writing it contained was when Leonard and Sheldon wanted to buy some helium for an experiment and found a dodgy dealer online who they arranged to meet at in a car park. In most sitcoms the dodgy dealer would have been a cliched small time crook but the great writing elevated the scene to a first division comedy classic. There are other scenes peppered throughout TBBT's run like that, often involving the cameo celebrities (Bob Newhart, James Earl Jones......) and it is why the show was and still is worth watching even in the later seasons when it was not as good as it had been. Very sad to see it go.
  20. Yes, congratulations from me too. Although the others are good or very good the winner is outstanding mainly due to the use of an authentic looking leather texture and directional lighting/shadow effects.
  21. If this is all about trying to copy text from some image with a font or text design you like, as HyReZ says, there's no easy way. If the text is single colour you can try using the Magic Wand tool to isolate it or alternatively remove the background by other means and cut the text out but that rarely gives ideal results. What you're left with is what I suspect most of us do when wanting to reproduce a text design we like and that is to try and identify the precise font used and work from there. Font identification is a really tedious and often thankless job because the font may be not even be a commercially available one but a custom design based on several others and therefore unique. These are the cases where trying to extract the text is the only real but, as said, unsatisfactory, solution. There are also a myriad of lookie-likey fonts out there too However despite the mind rotting nature of the task and eye strain involved it can be strangely satisfying when you've searched through a thousand fonts and actually found an exact match or something close enough to be more than acceptable for the purposes intended. The two font sources I've always found invaluable are:- https://www.whatfontis.com/ https://www.dafont.com/ But there are, of course, dozens of other font sites.
  22. Tolerance settings are the key. With the Recolour Choice plugin you just need to use the colour picker tool to select the exact colour (Primary) you want to replace and have the Secondary colour set to whatever you want to replace it with. Adjust the tolerance to get the best results. Recolour Choice is include in Red ochre's plugin pack:- https://forums.getpaint.net/topic/24584-recolour-choice/
  23. No argument about the manual recolouring working from me but I read the OP as Apollo720 wanting to work out what he did originally to create the blue version because he wanted to repeat it. The use of the Invert Colors tool seemed and still seems to me a pretty good guess about how that was done. I understand his problem very well, I've made the same mistake myself only this week, spending a lot of time on one element of an image I was creating. Meaning to recolour it just temporarily I merged it down with a background layer. However when I came to save the work in progress I undid it back past the merge but forgot about the recolouring step, saved it and shut down PDN. Result: the colouring could not be easily reversed back to the original.
  24. The point was, I thought, to work out what Apollo702 originally did to create the original cyan/blue version. That means he can not have used the Manual Color plugin (BTW thanks HyReZ for the working link - no problems for me unzipping and installing it. Should be useful.). So I was thinking about this whilst doing my weekly shop, as I do, and then it suddenly occurred to me a very simple way the orange original could have been converted to cyan/blue. With the basic PDN tools and plugins likely to have been present, as seems was the case, it actually only requires the use of the Invert Colors tool. Using it that orange original version converts to a pleasant cyan/blue which maybe how it was done at the time; yes/no?
  25. It just occurred to me that there is another way of doing the angled gradient effect which might be easier. Use the same gradient tool to create a perfectly horizontal gradient then use Rectangle Select to draw the narrow field and rotate it rather than the gradient. Crop the image to the selection area afterwards. But if you used the second suggestion instead, to copy the provided orange gradient image, and converted that to cyan I do not see how that can not be it unless you're wanting a precise colour match. That is a bit more difficult because precise colour matching with the Color Balance plugin is difficult. There is a Color Balance+ v1.1 tool which allows a bit more subtlety, differentiating between highlights, mid-tones and shadows but even that can not be used easily to match a particular cyan/blue tone. What, exactly, does not match the precise effect or colour you want?