oma Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it I've rated this a bit beyond beginners . It seems very long as I've put in many pictures of even basic steps. I will say this you must already know how to add plugins and how to add layers, merge layers,. Select outside an object using the wand and control + i. ======================= these would be added plugins required for this little tut along with the link on how to add plugins. Plugins required: Power stretch Shape3d ...NOTE if you have trouble downloading these plugins do not ask in this thread. The correct forum procedure is to ask with in the thread of the plug in you are having difficulty with. This way the plug in writer has a better chance of seeing your question and addressing any updates or corrections they need to do for making their plugins run smoothly. In most cases if you read through the entire section on the plugin (page 1 to the end) someone else has had same issue and there is a solution mentioned already. ================================== This is not a punch and go tut. You must use some artistic judgement. especially in part 2. So lets begin open a new file. use 800 x 600 for this example . it needs to be transparent. (it opens all white background edit>select all> delete button. it should now be checkerboard PART 1 setting up the skin and shape. this is all done on one layer. colors used primary CDF280 secondary 64CE5A 1) render> clouds yes I said clouds. it gives a good mottle texture found in most fruit. settings are just default. 2) distort> seamless texture maker. default settings 3) repeat distort> seamless texture maker at default settings. you should end up with something similar to this don't be alarmed if it is not the exact same. It is the nature of clouds what you are looking for is that dead centre those lines radiating outwards gives you the stem portion indent look. Stick with me you will see in the next step. 4) render>shape 3d you are leaving at sphere and only changing these four settings. axis 1 55.6 axis 2 36.9 axis 3 29.1 and uncheck the light box. 5) looks like a green orange. now we need to reshape this to a pear. I use a variety of distorts for this in my original pear picture but simplified for you in this tut down to these three settings of distort bulge to start. pay close attention if it is a negative or plus setting. and your decimal spot. distort > bulge settings 100 centre 0.62 -0.29 hit the OK button next distort > bulge settings 100 centre -0.52 -0.53 hit the OK button next distort > bulge settings 100 centre -0.90 -0.15 hit the OK button. 6) I'm not liking the left side so I'm going to use distort > power stretch (watch your negative and and plus settings) these are the settings 14 0 -11 -24 .09 -0.63 0 7) last reshape. distort > bulge settings 45 -0.65 0.25 (again the negative and plus settings are important) 😎 this is what you should end up with. At this point it should really be cleaned up around the edges (aa and make a mask). I'm skipping that step as this tut is about the shading more than masking. ======================================================================== Well that doesn't look like much of anything beyond clouds in a pear shape. It really really needs some shading and color to bring it to life. Part 2 Color now everyone has their own method of doing coloring. some like brushes, some like smudge me I like to use blurs. I find they tend to look very realistic. So I'm going to show you how to blur color and you can go back in latter and do you own brush and smudge if you wish. But please try it this way just this once. Its very close to actual painting. You still need a semi artistic eye for placement of light, medium and dark values. I tried to simplify it down to just a few steps. When I did my pear I had about 3 or 4 times the number of painting blurring layers with more transparency changes. this is a very simple version. 1) you have on a transparent layer your pear shape from part 1 above. 2) wand outside the pear shape and control + i you leave this active all the way to the end of the tut DO NOT DESELECT at any time until you are ready to do the stem or the shadow 3) add a transparent layer I set my brush at 20 remember if you paint half along half on and half outside the marching ants line, only the color inside those lines will show that's great. you don't want a solid even line all the way around. It would make it too symmetrical looking. pears have dents and dips. notice where the pear dips in at the top the green is wider, I put in some yellow along the left bottom edge that's your reflective edge (gives a bit of roundness) l used three colors DB3D3D FFFF93 and 008700 4) the next step is to blur these out in this case I used a 75 gassiaun blur. 5) OK stand back be honest, It looks not too good. It truly needs to be darker in some spots more yellow in others a bit more red etc etc. . so we go again. same colors same brush size (actually I did use a bit brighter yellow but not too much different from first yellow, beginners stick with the same colors for now until you get more experienced at color mixing.) on another transparent layer 6) so you need to blur that but how do you determine what number 75 might or might not be correct this time. look at these two first one on the left is at a low rate. see the lines of paint just show too much and don't seem to be spread out enough = not good the one on the right looks like too much blur you don't see much difference = not good so somewhere in the middle you need to use your judgement. It takes practice believe me I've been doing these blur paintings for quite a while, and I still use the undo button and back up a number of times. lets try it this setting for now 7) its looking much much better now so go ahead image > flatten 😎 duplicate the flattened layer (you should still have selection active marching ants!) set the blend mode on this new layer to multiply I left it at 255 opacity for now but you can adjust this later in step 10. 9) on this layer use photo > glow 10) now adjust the opacity of this top layer. leave as multiply but tone down the tranparency a bit. I set mine around 124. 11) image > flatten 12) I'm an impatient sort of person. I like to add my shadows now before I do the stem. That's just a me thing you can wait and add them at the end. add a semi transparent black shadow. one long one on side away from light and a little one under the other side bottom edge. NOTE: ( I didn't take pictures of this but if you all need them I can fake out some for you at this point. ) also don't forget to add a white highlight on the side where the light comes from . (this is done the same way as you do the shiny buttons white gradient.... remember the second color is transparent....one other thing to note I use a radial gradient instead of linear.) adding the shadows now gives me a better idea of how real it is looking. ( I might at this point go in and do some more color layers or a bit more distort.... but you leave it for now it will give you a fairly good pear) 13) add a transparent layer and using the line tool and a shade of brown draw in the stem. 14) set the stem into the dip at the top of the pear. add another transparent layer use dark dark green dot about a size 20 brush right there at bottom of stem and in dent of pear. then Gaussian blur I did it around 15 here. remember that blur should not be going outside the pear boundary. how do you stop that do you still have active selection if not wand outside pear + control i then blur 15) hopefully you've a decent pear. it takes practice but its not difficult. 16) so I've given you some basics of painting using blur can you manage to shade the stem? its wand outside the stem control + i add your transparent layer and paint in lighter and darker shades and blur. when you are done go ahead and flatten the image. ciao OMA 2 Quote My Deviant Art Gallery Oma's Paint.Net gallery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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