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Goonfella

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Everything posted by Goonfella

  1. Wow Skullbonz what are you on? Excellent set of psychedelic images. Nice one.
  2. Thanks DrewDale. I want to try out different shaped panels if possible. If you look at Premier League footballs they have `stretched' hexagons (best way I could think of describing it.) Thanks Barbie. Third tut in a week! A record for me.
  3. This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it This tutorial was first posted by kake_fisk in April 2009. l have redone it, adding a few extra steps of my own, using newer plugins and (hopefully) an improved result at the end. A few plugins are used - Bevel Selection and Inner Shadow Selection from Boltbait`s Plugin Pack available here. Hexgonal Grid from Madjic`s plugin pack available here. Engrave/Emboss from Toli`s plugin pack available here. Shape3D by MKT available here. This is what we will be creating. Bear in mind you will need to change the Flood Mode of the Magic Wand and Paint Bucket tools to either Contigious or Global several times during the tutorial. This can be done by clicking on the highlighted section. OK here we go. 1. New image, any size as long as it is square. I made mine 600x600.Rename it Gridlines. 2. On that layer run Effects>Render>Hexagonal Grid at the settings shown. 3. Next do Effects>Stylize>Outline at default settings. You could always just increase the width of the lines when using the Hexa Grid plugin but I chose to follow the original tutorial here. 4. Duplicate the layer. Rename the new layer `Panels'. Select the Magic Wand, default tolerance, with the Flood Mode set to Global. Click inside one of the hexagons and you should select them all like in the image. 5. Pick the Paint Bucket tool, Flood Mode back to Contigious, choose your colour, and click only inside the hexagons needed for your ball. Mine is just a standard football pattern for the tutorial but there are numerous styles to choose from. 6. With the hexagons still selected go to the Gridlines layer and Delete. This will leave just the Gridlines on this layer. Then Select the Magic Wand again, change the Flood Mode back to Global and select the hexagons like in Step4. Ctrl-I to invert the selection, go to the Panels layer and again press Delete. This should leave you with just the grid on one layer and the panels on the other. We have separated them out as they will need to be like this to continue with the next stage. 7.Turn off the Panels layer if you wish so you can see the Gridlines layer below. Once again select the hexagons- Magic Wand at Global(you must be pretty good at this by now! ), turn the Panels layer back on again so you can see the effect of the plugin and make it the active layer Use Effects>Selection>Bevel Selection at these settings. To give you this. 8. Then on the same layer,leaving the Selection active, use Effects>Selection>Inner Shadow Selection at these settings 9. After deselecting you should have a football texture like this 10. Now on the Gridlines layer use Effects>Stylize>Engrave/Emboss at these settings. This is to try to bring out the panels and not to have a finish that is too flat. leaving the layer looking like this. 11. Either merge or flatten the layers. Then use Effects>Render>Shape3D at these settings- And Voila! We are finished. Save as a png file to use in your projects. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial . Now lets see some action!
  4. That's a great comparison of fake vs real racerx. You've done a superb job with your waterdrop, I would never have been able to pick it out from the rest.
  5. Excellent result Eli. I like the fact you adapted the tut to your own needs. Nice work.
  6. Very nice Seerose but the drops are a bit grey don`t you think? Drewdale had a similar problem. Hope it`s not my tut at fault. (tried doing my tutorial start to finish with a flower this time instead of a leaf and it still worked out fine so I am lost as to why you guys end up with grey waterdrops. ) I did notice that I forgot to mention at Step 3 that you first have to Deselect the ellipse before adding the Drop Shadow so I have added that in.
  7. That`s odd. Maybe adjusting the opacity of the layer would do the trick . Stock leaf? I think it must have been the green background and the stalk that deceived me. Sorry.
  8. Nice work racerx. You just need to rotate a few of the waterdrops to suit the direction they would be running but other than that it`s a good result. Drew did you remember to change the blend mode to overlay? The drops look a bit grey and this could be why. I like the way you made your own leaf as well.
  9. This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it This is an updated version of the Waterdrop tutorial first posted by Eraesr using a slightly different technique with newer plugins. These are the ones I used - Drop Shadow from KrisVDM`S Plugin Pack The new Inner Shadow from Boltbait`s Plugin Pack OK let us begin. Open a suitable image.In my case I have used a leaf but water drops, as we all know, can be found in lots of different places so just choose one you like . 1.New Layer. Use the Ellipse Select tool to create a water drop shape. Bear in mind the surface you will be using when making it. 2.Then, with the colours default black & white, get the Gradient too land make a Linear Gradient across the selection with the white side nearest to the direction of the light.Set the layer blend mode to Overlay. 3.Deselect the ellipse (Ctrl-D ), then go to Effects>Object>Drop Shadow and add a shadow to it. These are my settings but you can experiment- Then go to Effects>Object>Inner Shadow plugin add some internal shadow to the waterdrop. These are my settings- Adjust the opacity of the layer for the best effect. I decided on 130. New layer called Highlight. With the primary colour set to white use the Paintbrush to add a small dot at the brightest part of the drop then blur it slightly with Gaussian Blur. I used a setting of 4. You should end up with something like this - If you want, for a bit more realism, you can distort the image under the water drop. To do this go to the Water drop layer and select anywhere outside the drop, then Ctrl-I to invert the selection. Then move down to the leaf layer, and use your preferred method to distort the area underneath the drop. I used the Effects>Distort>Bulge at these settings- When you have deselected you should have something like this - You can then merge the waterdrop layers, copy and paste onto a new layer, move and adjust the shape to have a few more of them quite easily. You will need to redo the highlight and distort the leaf under each new waterdrop. I did this quickly for this tut and got this result. It could probably be made to look better with more time spent on it. Hope you find this tutorial useful.
  10. Thanks Dryda. Can`t believe you are still `forbidden'. Hope they fix it soon.
  11. Lovely image Seerose, of course I like it. I think the frame looks superb . Well done. Thanks to everybody who has done the tut. It`s so nice to see it`s used.
  12. Nice image Dryda. I particularly like the star constellation at the top right hand side. Reminds me a bit of the Big Dipper. The nice little moon at the bottom helps to show what a giant the planet is and that is an interesting use of different colour stars, although I think the red is a bit too strong for my tastes.It`s a great background though. You can see how much work went into it. Have to admit I`m not sure about the Nebula in the background . The clouds have a rather rough look to them. I think smoother ones would look better with more diffuse lighting. It looks more like an explosion behind the planet rather than a nebula (unless of course that is what you meant it to be, in which case it looks great!) And on the subject of lighting take a look at this - http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/multimedia/gallery/PIA01969.jpg&imgrefurl=https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/multimedia/display.cfm?IM_ID%3D2121&h=569&w=894&tbnid=6Zzu0neEtHHFuM:&zoom=1&docid=4rPaQ5ySqF4NPM&hl=en&ei=ACXNVMejAcq17gbP24GICg&tbm=isch&ved=0CB4QMygAMAA&biw=1366&bih=649 This is a photo from NASA .See how the shadow is far sharper and the sides of the rings are still in sunlight? So from directly behind the planet more of the rings would still be visible. Personally I think you have put too much of the rings in shadow. The rings themselves are well done, I like them. Seems a shame to hide so much of them! All in all another excellent spacescape Dryda. Hope you don`t mind my comments.
  13. That`s right toehead , you are basically going from top left to bottom right. You could also just make a selection using the Ellipse Select tool and create the circle that way. With Metallize, I found it turned it black as well but if you set the Angle of Start at 360 and the Type to 0 it should work.
  14. Ahh I see where I went wrong. There are two plugins with similar names - Polygones and yours - Polygon. I mistook the dll I have installed as yours. Sorry Boltbait.I will go right ahead and sort it out. OK done that. I still prefer my method for the inner circle though as you can`t specify an exact size in the plugin , in this case 155x155.
  15. Nice work nitenurse. I like the reflection. I think maybe the highlights/shadows could be a bit stronger though to give a more metallic feel . Not a lot else wrong really. I have updated the tut to include EER`s and Boltbait`s suggestions, although I found it tricky to judge the size of the inner rim circle using Polygones so I left that bit as it is. If there was a function to set the size of the circle in the plugin it would have been ok - idea for a future update maybe Boltbait? Drew you must have posted as I was writing this. Nice job. Although I think the colours,highlights & shadows could be stronger. Interesting idea to do the radial blur twice. If you increase the angle though ( as I have in the update) then you don`t need to use the plugin twice. The extra Noise on the Inner and Outer parts look OK although I have never seen an actual CD/DVD that has this. It`s always nice to see people doing the tut though.
  16. EER, looking at one of my DVDs again I think you might be right. Boltbait, don't know why I never thought of that before. I've used your plugin for that previously as well! Thanks. As soon as I can I will update the tut with your suggestions. Thanks for the feedback.
  17. After your great Vinyl Record tut I just felt it had to be done. Otherwise we would be stuck in the 70`s!
  18. Thanks nitenurse. Look forward to seeing yours.
  19. This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it This is an updated tutorial of a DVD originally posted by Vezixig. Plugins used - Align Object by moc426 AA`s Assistant and Metallize from dpy`s Plugin Pack Polygones from Boltbait`s Plugin Pack This is what we will be creating- My names for the layers are just my preferences. You can do the same or use your own, it doesn`t really matter. 1. Create a new Image 500x500 and either color it (any color will do except grey) or do as I did and make it transparent using Ctrl-A > Del. Rename it Back colour . 2.New Layer called Background and paint a light grey(#cccccc) filled circle starting at 0,0 to 499,499. Use Align Object to make sure the circle is centered and AA`s Assistant at default settings to smooth the edges. 3.New Layer. Name it Rim. Open up Boltbait`s Polygon plugin (Effects>Render>Polygon/Stars) and use these settings to create a rim around the circle using colour #777777. Thanks to Boltbait for his suggestion, it does make this step much easier. 4. New Layer called Inner Rim - Draw a circle with linestrength 20 and a size of 155x155, colour #777777. To make it easier to get the right size I started at 100,100 and drew the circle out to 255,255. Then AA and Align Center as before. 5. Merge the two layers into one. Rename the layer Outline. 6. New Layer. Name it Center Circle. Make a circle with linestrength 35 and a size of 90x90 - Align Center and AA it. Still using #777777 as color. 7. New Layer - Center Circle2 - Linestrength 5 - Size 130x130 - Color: #FFFFFF - Align center followed by AA 8. New Layer - Center Circle3 - Linestrength 5 - Size 52x52 - Color: #FFFFFF - again use Align center & AA 9. Merge these 3 Layers into one. Open the Layer Properties and set the alpha blend to 90. That`s the first part done. Now to add some colour. 10. On the Background layer add Noise - Intensity 40, Colour Saturation 0 and Coverage 100. Then use Radial Blur at an angle of 50, the rest default. This ensures the track lines are not too powerful, as EER pointed out when I used an angle of 10. Thanks for that feedback EER. Then use Metallize - Angle 360, Type 0 , or you could use Curves. Play with the settings until you are happy. Just a note - the images of my DVD from this point still have the old angle of 10 so yours should look even better at the end! 11. Add a layer between Background and Outline.Name it Colour Lines. Select the Line-tool and Draw a Line with a width of 30 from the Center of the image to the outline. Select a dark purple as color like #400089. 12. On the same layer add a new line with the same settings except the color - chose a brighter purple like #7C0089. Paint it next to the First line with some offset. 13. Repeat adding lines moving the color to pink. 14. Next a step which I consider to be optional. Vezixig used this but I never felt the need to. Select the Effect > Distort > Bulge plugin to, surprise surprise - bulge the lines! Unfortunately I don`t know what settings he used but you can always experiment. 15. Select the Effect > Blurs > Gaussian Blur. I used 55 as my setting but yours may differ. 16. Select the Effect > Blurs > Fragment at default settings except for Fragment Count which I set at 20. 17. Set the opacity of my layer to 175. 18. On new layers add some more color gradients from Blue to green and green to yellow using the same technique as Steps 13-17. 19. Merge your Gradient Layers into one and set the Opacity to 175. Play around with the curves to lighten/darken up the gradients to get the "perfect" look. Or if you like you can keep the layers apart and adjust them separately which gives you more control over the end result. 20. Create a new Layer called Highlights and draw white colored lines from the center of the images in all directions to the outer line. It's ok if they overlay the previous created color gradients. 21. Next use Gaussian Blur. Mine was at 30. Adjust the setting until you are happy. 22. Play around with the Layer opacity to get smooth looking reflections. I used an opacity of 190. 23. New Layer called Shadows and do Steps 20-22 again. Now use black as color. I used 90 for Gaussian Blur and 190 again as opacity. The result should look something like this: Here is how I set up my Layers - 24. Finally we have to clean up the ROM. Go to the Outline Layer and Select the outside Area with the Magic Wand and a tolerance of 60%. Now erase this area from all gradient Layers. 25. Select the inside Area of the Outline Layer and erase the selection from the gradient Layers. 26. Select the Center Circle- Then go to the Background layer and also delete . Use AA once again to smooth things out. 27. Change the opacity of the Center Circle layer to your preferred opacity. I used 120. And there you are. Hopefully you should have a final image something like the one below. You can color in the Backcolor layer or leave it transparent. I will be leaving it transparent once the tut is finished so I can save as a PNG file in case I want to use it in other projects. Final Image -
  20. And a very successful test it is too! I love the motherboard underneath. Yours or stock?
  21. Now there is an idea for my next image! Thanks Eli.☺
  22. Thanks EER. Never knew my 'Tutorial Suggestion' thread would lead to a whole new section on the forum!.
  23. Yes I have noticed that no matter how many times I save my Shape3D window size it still always starts small again. A fix for 4.06 maybe?
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