oma

sword tut is done. this is basic decorate and do your thing guys. its been brought down to as close to begginer level as I can get it. my own Excalber image I did many more steps and some very differently. ciao hope you all enjoy. OMA

thanks David I hope its in correct section and I put proper difficulty level ciao OMA

I've noticed that some of you wish to put this sword against black backgrounds. make sure you don't loose that crisp sharp edge. here is one real quick method of avoiding that. its to back light that sword with out being too harsh looking. on the layer with your sword wand out side the sword and control +I set color to yellow add a transparent layer between the sword layer and the background layer. your selection should still be active fill that selection with the yellow (if you've done it correctly it looks same shape as your sword) zoom twist at default settings gassiaun blur you can notch down the transparency at this point but see you don't loose the edge but your mind still thinks and reads this as a solid black background ad your sword looks more glowing. Just now looking at this picture below I still see a few lost edges. I'd just use move pixels tool and slide down the layer of yellow so all the edges show better. OR I might just do another little bit of red in another transparent layer and blur that out with a radial blur at that spot. my backgrounds even the dark blackish ones are about 10 layers. request for a different style handle radial gradiant layer two tones red add transparent layer and do a hex grid (set both sliders at around 26) colors I used here darker red primary color is opaque 255 secondary color 0 transparency then do a drop shadow layer of the hexgrid so this drop shadow layer is in between your gradiant layer and the original top hex grid layer. Look over on left side layers box. merge shape 3d its just bullet shape. watch the end ball size over right hand side of the UI and the light changes. keep track of the minus and plus numbers. new transparent layer draw a small oval at base of handle outline at an angle. wand the outline only you may have to jiggle around with the transparency depending on how much color differential you used for the outline. add a transparent layer and bevel

This tutorial is available as a free PDF. Click here to open or download the PDF repairs done moderate skill levels. It seems very long as I've put in many pictures of even basic steps. I will say this you must already know how to add plugins and how to add layers, merge layers, and use the move pixels tools. Selecting and deselecting items and layers. You will also use a gradiant so if you need to brush up on that F1 while you are in the paint.net program should direct you to the appropriate section for a quick review. Much of this has been covered in other tuts but I see some of you are still having trouble translating what you learned in one tut to another application. . . long list of plugins (some are in pkgs) Align Object (also available in this plugin pack KrisVDM's Plugin Pack Mirror Outline Object (incluced in Pyrochilds pkg) Curves+ (incluced in Pyrochilds pkg) Bevel Selection Random Mazes (incluced in MadJik's pkg) Buttons (incluced in MadJik's pkg) Shape3D ================================== The sword blade is done in three sections a) bottom blade top blade c) engraving. ---- d) the langet is the piece that keeps the blade from slipping thru the scabbard ---- e) two piece handgurard --- f) handle ---- g) buttons ---- =================================================== so lets get you started start with a 800 x 1200 transparent canvas (lost already? your screen opened with a white canvas! at a different size. so that takes care of the size problem now just add a layer, the button looks like this :AddNewLayer: and then highlight the white layer and hit the little x button . you should now have that checkerboard background. A --- Bottom Blade draw a blue line brush width 45 90Degrees 8 inches long. watch the side ruler on the left start at 4" mark and go down to the 12" mark. align that across the page. (Horizontal only) I zoomed in to 500% just to see this real clear. zoom ??? well look up top of screen see those magnifying glasses with the drop down box. Use the rectangle select tool and draw your self a selection box down near the bottom of your blue line. by using the right button on your mouse you can rotate that box pay attention to the two end points I indicated on this picture below . they need to be outside of the blue line after you have it lined up properly use the sissors and get rid of that portion of the blue line you can do both sides using the same method my hands are not the steadiest so I like to use the mirror plugin next we give that blade an edge using the outline plugin by Pyrochild. I use this one here as it has an angle adjustment. this next portion turning it to metal was from the tut by ASH. He used an oval but it is good on any shape. it is a basic must learn..... for shiny metal! so I'll repeat it here using a different shape than what ASH used. (for those that follow my pictures I used this also in the coins) conditional hue change as I've marked on the picture below. then change it to black and white in the tut by ASH he used brightness and contrast on this sword I'd like you to use Curves+ bottom blade is now done B -- Top Blade make a duplicate layer of that bottom blade click the move pixels tool hold shift key down and drag the top corner inwards. roughly align it over top of the bottom blade you can adjust a bit in next step I'll tell you what to watch for C -- Engraving decoration top layer rotate your entire image for this step at this point recheck you alignment and move around decrease sizea bit more etc if required add a transparent layer and type your text. in this example I've used wingdings2 as most people have that on their computors this is alternate "g""h" I typed it in yellow different colors give different results this is because of the curves steps I do latter. so for now use these colors watch where you start and end it should be centred on the top blade and not go past the beginning and end of the top blade. outline this text and change it to black and white rotate your layer back 90 degrees counter clockwise I found it wasn't shiny enough so I added more curves+ the blade is now complete you can merge all three layers together D -- Langet add a transparent layer and select a rectangle around the top portion make sure you cover that join of the two blades. fill with a linear gradiant. deselect that rectangle now and then outline this gradiant (make sure you don't use black or gray or white) I used brown here. You want to be able to select this outline next step. change tolerance to 0 wand the outline section only(the brown) and bevel this selection E --- Handguard set your colors to red primary and secondary blue add a transparent layer bucket fill the layer with blue run the maze1 plugin at these settings (make sure you uncheck the square maze box!) its metal folks so we better run the conditional hue plug in same as doing the blade above remeber its changing the fade vertical and the slider under hue range. see the little thumb up the top of this next picture you want it something like this doesn't have to be exact. run shape 3d on this layer at the settings marked in the picture below don't forget to uncheck the light box add another transparent layer bucket fill with blue run the maze 1 plug in same settings as last time. you forget those settings look up two pictures ago got it? (quantity 92 margin 68 uncheck square maze) this time you need to run the 3d shape back to back on the same layer first time at the settings on the left giving a circle (those are all default except change the light box) on this same layer run 3d shape again change the full sphere to half sphere and change as the picture on the right so you have two pieces for the hand guard move them as shown the round portion goes tucked in behind the curved hand guard piece. merge these two together change it to metal (adjustments>black and white) adjust the contrast black and white if you so desire. F -- Handle add a transparent layer use selection oval and fill with gradiant two tones red darker at top. use the duplicate layer button and make 3 more (4 total) now drag the layers down one after another so you look like you have handgrips . then merge them together clik anywhere outside the handle on a transparent part with the move pixels tool and drag that handle in size porportion to the sword blade the handle layer now gets moved down see over on the right in this picture it shows the layers top one is handleguard, next one down is the langet, one below that is the blade your handle you just made should be on the bottom G --- Decorations and bling once again add a transparent layer buttons ---- poor man's diamonds plugin settings as in picture (default size just change the colors add a text if you want...this example I left plain) you are making three of the same thing using move pixel tool resize and position as picture shows DONE! resize and save as .png

no you didn't really #1 you did not wand outside the black lines then control +I tha't why you have the outline still and #2 you didn't bevel or not enough your trunks and tree limb don't show any roundness. #3 it doesn't appear as if you gassiaun blured the bottom duplicate. if you go back and do it again you can rough it up after the gassiaun blur by making another layer and using dents at that point on the top copy. .

oh so glowy! soft and sweet, just like everyone's dreams should be.

tried if I feather it too much more it will fade away to nada. I've an idea on how to fix that in the mock up tut I'm planing so will try it there. ciao

ohhhhhh I didn't take any screen shots...... let me do a mock up tut of something similar > I won't be posting it tonight or tomorrow (I've a birthday partyI'm helping to host for our friend who turns 70 tomorrow. I'll be spending the evening making fancy deserts and the make ahead pre dinner muchies.) but I'll work on it asap. will that suffice? hope so

that shoe is kicking good. great sig.!

thanks Sharp and Helen. appreciate the comments. PS Sharp that new sig is kicking.

wand outside that image and then control +I leave the selection active until the very end. add a transparent layer (this way if you make a boobboo you don't loose your drawing) If I'm not sure about coloring something or have some doubt I usually start with clouds. here black and a golden brown you need real rough. 115 top slider 100 second slider true blur at 5.87 ( think this is one of Ed Harveys plugins although it could be included in the basic paint.net now) add a new transparent layer remember leave that selection active. use bevel plugin (BoltBaits pkg.) try a goldish brown on top slider and a bit darker goldish brown on bottom slider used 5 default setting here then adjust your transparency, get used to using the transparency in BoltBaits pkg of plug ins you will thank me later for having more control. merge your layers down. make a duplicate layer of the merged branches and gassiaun blur at 2.

thanks you Shk_828 inspiration from a movie I watched last night when I couldn't sleep. "King Arthur". 15015 tut for this one will be re loaded shortly just have one or two changes.

thanks that layer you think looks like water .......in a PM to you. sorry everyone can't tell all my secrets in one go.....

this is an extremly lively colorful graphic. job well done. ciao OMA

good job on that last image. looks remarkably similar to the auroa borealis I see from my living room window on a cold eve. only thing missing is the musical dance the skylights often do. (perhaps sinwaves :wink: ) ciao OMA PS love the flames in the sword picture.

thanks Helen its what I thought but its not a great example, LFC4ever is correct its very pixelated. its a great example of how too much polarinversion, and distorts can be just one or two cliks beyond good taste. It will find its way to the trash bin shortly.... and I will use some of the things I learned to make a better image. "KNIGHTS 2" PS @ LFC4ever. not shadows missing so much as some should have been under instead of over. and a bit too much transparency level for the depth away from forground of image. some of the real far back ones were near impossible to get in there as the orginal was a flattened picture. .

page 30 #2 KNIGHTS 14930

newest is called Redeem check out the cross overs and the interlocks. hope theres enough shadows now. (based on comment in the abstract pictorium)

are you sure that will work Myridin? remember he is using a 3 decimal point measurment. status bar only uses 2 decimals. ciao

yes its definitely not what I was going for. its now sitting in the trash bin. maybe it will make a dramatic comeback reincarnated into another image

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=27083

I like this one the best. first look I said how'd he do that glass sheet then I said "Oh I know" great gallery so far. hope you keep working away at this .... your work shows lots of promise. definetly someone I've marked down to keep an eye on. ciao OMA

I remember when you were working on that torch cut letter "C" did you ever post a conversion tut? yours looks really good as compared to brand x. great gallery. ciao OMA

point warp is in the stickied plugin pkgs by Ilnab.

one thing further if by chance you are meaning picture in picture (pip) on movie maker. then its the download by Rehan over there at moviemakers forum. you will have to check with the people there. http://www.windowsmoviemakers.net/forums/ we only do paint.net related questions here. ciao