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Marilynx

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Posts posted by Marilynx

  1. 15 hours ago, lynxster4 said:

    Yes, I used the same font as my tutorial. Maybe you could find something similar?

     

    I found the author's website. See it here.

     

    You could also check here for a nice font with commercial licenses.

     

     

    I will emphatically check the author's website, because I very much liked the font you used in your tutorial!

     

    And I will also check your second site. I'm gonna lose my mind with this. I have learned that for physical covers, one need 1800 x 2700, 300 dpi, plus a suitable bleed, and MAY need wrap around for the whole book. But for e-books, they want it in a ratio of 1/1.6, 300 dpi prefered, also with a .25" bleed. 

     

     Once I learn your tutorial, I have a feeling that I am going to be doing it so many times I will have the darn thing memorized!2-3 times for each book -- and there will be 7 books in the series! (Geeze, I wish I were a clever programmer who could figure out how to automate this! Because seriously, I like this letttering effect better than almost anything else I have seen!)

    • Like 1
  2. On 2/10/2024 at 5:50 AM, lynxster4 said:

    Thank you @Marilynx. I'm glad you like it. I hope it works for what you have in mind. If you need any help, don't hesitate to ask.  😊

     

    If I can find the right backdrops and a commercially usable font (really liked the one you chose, but noted that someone asked about using in commercially in 2016 and apparently never got an answer!) I hope to use it for the covers of the books I have been working on. Still trying to get the right DNA -- may post about that elsewhere. But no matter what I've tried, from Text Formations to other tricks has given the lettering for the cover the right kind of boldness to stand out. This may.

    Covers1-3.jpg

    • Upvote 1
  3. THis is SUCH a cool technique. I am not sure I understand all of it, but have DL the effects packages -- already had Boltbait's, of course -- and figure out where they go. 

     

    I know what I want to use it for... I just hope it will work. 

     

     

  4. 21 hours ago, barbieq25 said:

    Hmm, I have the FastFX & it still works on my machine. I hope you can get some good results. I am keen to see how it goes. I wrote the tutorial a long time ago. 

     

    Well, the metal-making part of it is still my favorite method for acquiring it. I know that there is supposed to be a metallize in the newer PDN, but I do not really like the way it comes out. It appears that just "Glow" can have the same settings as FASTGLOW, so I am going to experiment with that. 

     

    Currently working on a silver Chinese dragon done ouroboros fashion, with a black pearl in the middle.

  5. 23 hours ago, null54 said:

     

    Here is a link to the forum topic, but I don't know if the plugin is compatible with 5.0.x.

    https://forums.getpaint.net/topic/18819-ed-harveys-fastfx/

     

    From the plugin description, at the time the plugin was written it was a faster version of Paint.NET's built-in Glow effect.

    The built-in Glow effect was rewritten to be GPU accelerated in Paint.NET 5.0, so I am guessing that is no longer the case.

     

    Thank you! Apparently, it does still work.

     

  6. On 6/28/2023 at 4:53 PM, Pixey said:

    You will, to use these brushes, need to download either Custom Brushes Mini, or Dynamic Draw.

     

     

    1.  Another way is to open Dynamic Draw in paint.net

    2.  Click on Add Brushes.

    3.  Navigate to where you unzipped the brushes, click on the brushes > Open.

    4.  All of the brushes will now be in Dynamic Draw.

     

    I did manage to get Dynamic Draw to work... but it appears that in order to change colors, you have to go out and then come back in again?

  7. 2 hours ago, Pixey said:

    You will, to use these brushes, need to download either Custom Brushes Mini, or Dynamic Draw.

     

     

    1.  Another way is to open Dynamic Draw in paint.net

    2.  Click on Add Brushes.

    3.  Navigate to where you unzipped the brushes, click on the brushes > Open.

    4.  All of the brushes will now be in Dynamic Draw.

     

    I don't understand. I can't get at the brushes, They're in that .abr file that I can't open. So I can't navigate to them. 

     

    I think this mess is why I gave up on added brushes before. I don't understand it, and I don't know what I need to DL or what to with it if I can find it.

     

     

  8. 38 minutes ago, Pixey said:

     

    Put it on your desktop.  Then follow the instructions I gave you above.

     

    I never put ANYTHING on the desktop, and wouldn't have the faintest idea how. THe programs I use regularly are on a toolbar at the bottom of the screen. There are three files in the ABRviewer zip, the .exe, a .exe config, and a miscutil.dll.

     

    I thought I read in the thread that ABRviewer was no longer needed?

     

  9. 5 hours ago, Pixey said:

     

    I would not use the "right click on the brushes folder" to find the brushes.

     

    This is how I do it.

     

    1.  Make a new folder and unzip the brushes from the Zip folder.

    2.  Open AbrViewer.

    3.  Go to File > Open brush sets.

    4.  Navigate to where you saved the unzipped folder of the brushes.

    5.  Click on the unzipped brush icon.

    6.  The brushes will then upload into AbrViewer.

    7.  To export back to the folder from whence they came.

    8.  Change the thumbsize to 500.

    9.  Choose Export > Thumbnails.

    10. Navigate to the folder where you saved the original file.

    11.  Find your Custom Brushes folder in paint.net and add them there.

     

    Well, I have tracked down ABRviewer, but I don't know what to do with it. Where to put it, how to open it and use it.

  10. 1 hour ago, Ego Eram Reputo said:

    1. Have you correctly installed the DLL in the Filetypes folder? (by 'correctly' I mean unzipped it)

     

     

    2. I wonder if your .abr is computed?

     

    3. How about posting the file here so we can check it out?

     

    Yes, I have placed it in the Filetypes folder, after unzipping. (I read this entire thread before I started.)

     

    This is the Zip as I DL it from www.brusheezy.com. I opened the zip and removed the file. But somehow, after I put in the same folder as the dll, it got permanently associated with being opened by PDN, and I cannot undo that as far as I can determine. Working in Settings,  It wants me, not to REMOVE PDN, but to select something from the MS store to substitute for PDN, and the choices it offers me do not look like anything that would open this type of file. 

     

     

     

     

    Retouching_Brushes.zip

  11. I do not understand. I have put the file in file types. 

     

    I DL an .abr file. Somehow, it's gotten set to opening with PDN, and PDN can't open it. I don't normally set permanent "open this file type with this program" so I don't know how to undo that. (I am apparently screwed. The "always use" apparently can't be undone without going into the register and I really do not like that. It makes me VERY nervous.)  But its setting means I will NEVER be able to open any .abr file on this machine. And since PDN can't open the file, how the bleep do I get the .PNG files that apparently PDN CAN read?

  12. That's really interesting. So, you didn't bother with Color Replacer. You used Hue/Saturation to change the colors. Interesting. I will play with that. I have trouble finding the right combinations of Hue/Saturation to get the right colors. 

     

    I see that you feathered her hair... but what setting did you use on the brush which allowed you to do that?

     

    Did you then make a copy of the feathering (I'm not sure if you feathered a copy of the original, or if you feathered on a blank layer and then merged them.) and then use Hue/ Saturation to make it red?

  13. Well, I obviously do not understand what I accomplish with hardness, spacing and fill.  And how that gets me to wispy stuff. FOr instance, you obviously did something different with the shirt to get it to look more "shirt like" but I don't understand what. 

     

    When I try changing spacing and such all I get are dots..... like this:

     

    image.png.920074e46f7157f73d853796f431f8bb.png

     

     

     

  14. 19 hours ago, Lemonade said:

    Keep the shower cap on :)
    I'd use brush tool (fairly small size 2-6, on a separate layer) and add hair details. Maybe use Smudge plugin to fade colors. Use some reference photos for grey hair.

    legolas.jpg

    What's a brush tool? It sounds like something I could and would definitely use!

     

    I like Smudge and use it for a bunch of things. My one annoyance is that you cannot zoom in if you are smudging a tiny area. 

     

  15. 20 hours ago, Pixey said:

    And what a fine result you have done @Marilynx 👍

     

    It's decent. But the hair doesn't look right -- not wispy enough on the edges. Not to mention I did something strange to her jawline. 

    12 hours ago, Disk4mat said:

    WTG I am a fan of version 3 as well. Looks like you got to a place where the project is going in the right direction.

     

    Yeah, BUT...!

     

    This one isn't going so well. This is for a character who is a priest.He's had a treatment called "Renewal" which makes him physically in his 20s despite being around 170. It is traditional for those who are Renewed to have silver hair.  So, starting here:

     

    A photo I liked, to practice. (Looking for suitable one to buy. This is Orlando Bloom, from a fannish wallpaper.) Used Boltbait's Oil Painting on it. Added a clerical collar. Then I used Color Replacer. Uhm. No. Just.... NO, on #3. Guy looks like he's wearing some sorta weird shower cap! So, having made a copy of the hair before CR, I tried something else: Boltbait's Black & White. This gave a really nice silver, but the guy still looks like he's wearing a weird shower cap! I also copied the eyebrows to two separate layers and used Motion Blur on them to get a sorta hairy effect. (I tried Fur Blur, but the curls just Did Not Work for tiny areas like eyebrows.) Black & White gives me a real nice silver but I can't get the hairline to work, even with trying to copy just it to a layer and do Black & White on it. I can't feather it in.... I tried, on different copies, all sots of variations of Object => Feather, Gaussian Blur, AA's Assistant, and have not resolved either the inside of the ear or the hair line.

     

    image.png.e48bbb58caaf963e394e89ce502ba5e6.pngimage.png.dff5069fba7b3dd8dbe65a458755079b.pngimage.png.6b37642ff3d781b5bed1346ed398518c.pngimage.png.7e3f1b3c70494b1affa27b132cc7e97e.png

    • Like 1
  16. On 6/17/2023 at 12:01 PM, Disk4mat said:

    If you are inclined, post up the head and we can take a look at it. Even if you create a new layer and used the line tool to trace over the fine lines, you can erase on the original and merge your traced layer to restore the fine lines that got erased. People here on the forum are full of ideas and solutions. We just need to know what we are shooting for.

     

    Okay, this is simply a picture of actress Amanda Tapping which I snagged off the web to practice on and learn with. I am presently hunting through the various royalty-free sites to find something similar which I can buy. My goal is to turn her into a red-haired green eyed person in a teal shirt. In the second one, made a little larger, I was able to use color replacer to change blue eyes to green (I have a palette set up with eye, hair and skin tones which I created from a site somewhere which listed colors. I'm in the process of using a tint/shade site to create those from, for instance, basic eye, skin, or hair colors so I have more lights and darks in the same tone.)

     

    I tried using the wand on all kinds of settings to select just the hair and place it on a separate layer, but in too many cases, the hair color was too close to the skin tone for the wand to separate them, even at very low percentages. So my next step was to use the lasso to cut out the hair, which sorta worked but you lose the feathery wisps. Tried Gaussian blur, tried AA's Assistant, but it still looks "clunky" in my estimation. I also played around with Boltbait's Oil Painting plug in, and managed the third picture. I definitely like picture 3. 

     

    image.jpeg.783c52bb62c2f0a6cce8aca14ccafed2.jpegimage.png.bdb335e485dc4d4d52a69e2c16ee8b1b.pngimage.png.a028391e13a4b4ad3d72d99ab93a1c2a.png

    • Upvote 1
    • Hooray 1
  17. 2 hours ago, null54 said:

     

    Add ff to the start of each color, e.g.:

     

    ff000000
    ff020b0a
    ff041713
    ff06221d
    ff082e26
    ff0a3a30
    ff0c453a
    ff0e5143
    ff105c4d
    ff126856
    ff147360
    ff2c8170
    ff438f80
    ff5b9d90
    ff72aba0
    ff8ab9b0
    ffa1c7bf
    ffb9d5cf
    ffd0e3df
    ffe8f1ef
    ffffffff

     

    The Paint.NET palette colors consist of 8 hexadecimal digits in ARGB format, the first 2 characters set the transparency for the color.

    More details can be found in the comments at the top of the DefaultPdn.txt palette.

     

    Thank you. I remembered that there was SOMETHING which needed to be added to the hex but could not remember, for the life of me,  what it was. And could not find the earlier discussion. It now works perfectly.

     

  18. I remember discussing this some time back, but I can't apparently search mu owwn posts anymore, so I can't find it.

     

    I made a palette, and all the colors are transparent.

     

    THis is the palette: (for doing green eyes)

     

    000000
    020b0a
    041713
    06221d
    082e26
    0a3a30
    0c453a
    0e5143
    105c4d
    126856
    147360
    2c8170
    438f80
    5b9d90
    72aba0
    8ab9b0
    a1c7bf
    b9d5cf
    d0e3df
    e8f1ef
    ffffff

     

    How do I make this non-transparent?

     

  19. On 6/14/2023 at 2:08 PM, Disk4mat said:

    I would try to get the shirt on to a new layer and alter the color there using Hue/Saturation. That way if you want to change the color again in the future it will be very easy. Duplicate the image (layer) and start removing everything from the new layer that is not the shirt... Basically.

     

    I know there are other (easier) ways to do this. But I usually think along the most simple, robust lines possible. Even if its time consuming.

     

    Untitled.jpg.6808ea9b9c3b61eb11f853a78c255d58.jpg

     

    Actually, that's what I've been trying. But trying to cut out a head of hair, for instance, is kind of like, impossible. You just can't get all the wisps. 

  20. On 6/15/2023 at 2:21 AM, Ego Eram Reputo said:

     

    The trick is to use a large brush and keep the mouse button down until all the color is replaced. Doing it in several "steps" results in recoloring of the overlap.

     

     

    Yes, I'd figured that. BUt the problem is, when that big round brush sweeps over the skin next to either hair or shirt, it changes the color of THAT, too. 

     

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