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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/17/2017 in all areas

  1. Maximize is back. I reconfigured it since it decided to break itself on my computer, so hopefully none of that. This project is on github now. https://github.com/JoshuaLamusga/Brush-Factory. Link to documentation added in my first post.
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  2. Posting to plugin threads is always proper, no matter how old the thread is.
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  3. Hi @JaneBlue Welcome to the forum Yes your assumptions are correct. First of all when dealing with .arb files there are two ways to handle them. Paint has a plugin that will read them, import them and show you all the layers. There is also a small app out there (ARBViewer) that will read and convert them as well. Brush mini only needs 1 layer of the file to work with. Selecting that layer and saving it as a .png will allow you to import the brush into the plugin properly. Hope this helps
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  4. Thanks you two! I just do what I can.
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  5. Here's my first 'spacescape'....I call it Starbirth. You never know what is going on inside those nebulas...
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  6. @Seerose "Have a drink on me" serie : And another on step image:
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  7. This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download the PDF Polygonal (Gossamer) image I will try to keep this simple but there are many possible variants and alternatives to explore - please do experiment!... and post your results/tips in this thread. Required plugins: My Red ochre plugin pack and MJW's Edge-expander 1. Choose an image with a distinctive outline. Even better, draw and scan an original image. For this tutorial I will use this CC0 image from Pexel.com. If using a photographic image, try to choose one with a contrasting background. It will make turning it into an object much easier. If using a scanned drawing, convert it to black and alpha, (my Two-tone threshold can do this). You can of course draw the dots (vertices) where you wish this way. Tracing paper is very useful when scanning artwork - but that would be another tutorial. 2. Crop the image. 3. Resize the image - something in the range of 1000 pixels maximum dimension or less should work. (Image/Resize). 4. Select and delete the background. I used the magic wand in additive mode and clicked on the background till all was selected. If it selects parts of your subject, reduce the tolerance.The subject is now an 'object' (opaque pixels on a transparent layer). 5. Name the layer 'kingfisher object' or whatever is relevant for you. Do this by double clicking on the layer in the layers window and typing a name into the text box. 6. Save this image as a .png file (you don't want to do all that selecting again!). 7. Save as a .pdn file (always wise to save regularly). 8. Create a new layer and fill it with black. Either 'select all' and backspace or use the fill tool. Name this layer 'background'. 9. Create a new transparent layer and add some noise - Effects/Noise/Noise choice (the built-in one can't put noise on transparency). Name this the 'small dots' layer. 10. Move to the object layer, select the magic wand tool and click on the transparent area around the object. Now move to the small dots layer and press delete. 11. Copy the object layer (at stage 4) to the clipboard by moving to that layer then use Edit/Select all/Copy. 12 Move back to the small dots layer by clicking on it in the layers window. 13. We now need to apply the colours from the clipboard to the small dots. Many plugins can do this but I will use Effects/Tools/ClipWarpNew, with no warping. 14. Duplicate this layer, Name it 'big dots' and apply Effects/Object/Edge-expander with settings shown. 15. Hide the big dots layer by unchecking the visibility box. The small dots layer should now be active (highlighted in the layers window). 16. Run Effects/Iterative lines/Gossamer with the settings shown. Feel free to experiment though! 17. If some of the thin lines generated have obscured the edge of the object they can be deleted by first selecting the transparent space around the object on the object layer. Then move back to the Gossamer lines (small dots) layer and hit delete.The same idea as at stage 10. It also looks good to erase some of the lines with the eraser tool. 18. Turn the 'big dots' visibility back on. 19. Drag the object above the other layers and set its blend mode to multiply and lower the opacity. 20. Save as a .pdn file. Then select Image/Flatten then save as .png or .jpg file. Done!
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  8. @Pixey....of course!! Thank you much...I'm fascinated with this plugin. The image underneath is an original of mine done in a fractal engine. @barbieq25....thank you....lots and lots for millions of years! @LionsDragon....I am touched, thank you! @Seerose....thanks bunches dear! Love the kitty! (ran out of reps...catch you tomorrow...)
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  9. Hello again @JaneBlue abrViewer.net 1.0.2 is the app I was referring to. It did put a shortcut on my desktop when installed. It will export thumbnails of the brushes all at once into the folder you specify. I keep all my abr files in one folder then double click on the specific file to see a preview. Import the thumbnail into custombrushesmini and size as required. Brush sizes are usually over 2000 px and you would do bettter to import them into paint using the ARBfiletype plugin. Thats where you get them in layers and have to save them individually as .pngs BrushFactory is another plugin that does the same thing as custombrushmini but with a few more options. You should have a look at that one too. As for coloring - I'm not sure they are meant for that. They are brushes. In the BrushMini app you select the color you want to use. Or use the brush as grey-scale then color the canvas in paint. Creating duplicate layers and coloring the bottom layer works well for me. You can use the shape of the top layer to remove any overages. Might be on Ricks long todo list. Hope this all helps you get the most out of your grunge brushes
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  10. Let's see... -Stars, check -Red, check -Sparkles, check -Totally flipping AMAZINGLY GORGEOUS, check and check! If I had to pick a favorite, @lynxster4, I'd say this is my favorite of your works so far.
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  11. They look like relief paintings on canvas
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  12. I suspect that you received no reply because this error is generated inside the plugin and no one but the author can debug it. Try sending a Private Message (PM) to the plugin author about the problem. That might raise an email alert which he might notice.
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  13. You're welcome Red! Woodsy and I are hard at work restoring as many tuts as we can. I couldn't do this without his help. He is an awesome assistant (and doing most of the work).
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  14. Thank you (and helpers!) for all your hard work restoring images and creating PDFs.
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  15. Starbirth is very pretty. Looks like there will be a lot of stars born.
    1 point
  16. Oooooo so purdy . It's got my fave things .... glossy, goldy and sparkles . And .............. the texture is just fabulous! I'm guessing Red's TG angle?
    1 point
  17. Waterlily & sunflower how glassy & textured they are. They look like glass. Nice!
    1 point
  18. New update (yma: 170716) - Erase background - Offset vector Original pizza image from Photos Libres Humm DONZZA Shadow added after
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  19. @Seerose, your garden is magnificent!
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  20. I'm pretty sure the AccessViolationException is a bug in .NET: https://github.com/dotnet/coreclr/issues/10826 I'm referring to this comment specifically:
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  21. I made this plugin to get rid of random ink blots on scanned pages. There are two modes, one builds clusters of pixels outside tolerance of the secondary color, the other builds clusters of pixels within tolerance of the primary color. If the cluster is within the size thresholds, it is painted over with the secondary color. It's found under Effects/Noise Download: ClusterClearEffect.zip Example pics: The source code is available here: https://github.com/edwardx999/PaintDotNetClusterClear This is my first plugin (my first C# project, in fact) so it's not very advanced yet. If you have any suggestions please tell. Also, I couldn't find the formula Paint.Net uses to calculate tolerance, so if you know it, please tell me. 7/16/17 Added Clustering Modes and Linked Sliders 7/15/17 Initial Release
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  22. New update (yma:170715): -Always centered by default -Increase the range of main sliders -Small increment for the offset vector
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  23. This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download the PDF Curves – RGB or, Look What Happened On The Way To Purple! RGB Curves is like mixing colors on a palette. I will be discussing mainly "Primary Colors" and varying shades of them. With "Curves RGB" virtually any color known is achievable, all it takes is understanding the basics and playing around with the settings while you watch and learn how each change effects the original. Open a new file of any size you prefer. We will only need a small area for a single circle or rectangle. (I have drawn a red circle on the base layer and selected outside of it with the wand and inverted the selection with "Contl +I") If you start with a red circle let's say, then red is the "controlling color" as I call it The color you will be changing or effecting in other words. Had you drawn a green circle, green would be the "controlling color". This is important because what you start with in your selection is what will be effected colorwise, the jumping off point as it were. And, black let's say, is very different from red with the same changes applied as we shall see later. Now, go to "Adjustments – Curves" and then go to the tab and select "RGB" and have only the blue box checked. Slide the right side all the way down to the bottom and you will see that nothing happens. Because red, being a primary color has no blue in it to be removed. (nor green either) Now, put the right side of blue back to the top and go to the left side at the bottom and slide it up a little bit at a time. You will notice the red circle getting more pink (lighter red), why? Because you have added blue to your red which depending on amounts will make red varying shades of pink. Do the same with the green, what do you get when you mix green with red? Depending on amounts you get colors from orange to tan, to yellow at full green (full green = left side slid all the way to top). Now, have only the red box checked and slide the right down in incriments and see what happens. Yes, the red gets gradually darker until it's black, why? Because we are removing the control color of red, and the absense of color is black, or color #000000. Slide the right red down and the left blue up, what are you doing? You're taking away red and adding blue which of course gives you shades of purple because now you have more blue than red. More red than blue = pinks (magenta I think it's called) more blue than red = purples and lavenders Remember, the left side of the bar adds color to the original, the right side takes it away if it is there to take. To see this, draw a black circle and make it your selection. Now, open Curves and go to RGB and leaving all boxes checked, slide the right side to the bottom. Nothing happens because there is no color to remove. Now, go to the left side and slide the bar up in steps and you will see the circle getting lighter until it's finally white, why? Because you are adding all colors to it and white is an equal blend of all colors. Play around with it and get familiar. There is so much more that "Curves" can do for shading and blending or "tempering" colors. Just get a good grasp of the basics first: The beginning selected objects color is the "control color" that you effect with your adjustments. Right side down - takes away color if it's there to take away. Left side adds color of selected box (NOTE – In general, the left side of the bar will only add in colors other than the "control color". If your circle is red it will add blue or green if you check those boxes, but not red because red is already at full intensity "255" on the right side. If you have lowered the right side, you cannot "add" it back by raising the left side.) I have been asked to expand on this so I will give it a shot. I am not an engineer nor a programmer so I am likely to be off on terminology, all I can do is explain it the way I understand it. Now, tired of circles, me too so let's have a rectangle. And, let's talk some more about black because it's unique for it's "absence" of color. If you draw a black rectangle (on it's own layer this time so we don't have to keep selecting and inverting) and open the Curves command and go to RGB you will see (as usual) that all the bars on the right are at the top. This is a bit misleading because you would think that you could slide the right down and make a change to the color, but you can't. There is no color to effect in black. You can only go to the left side and ADD color, be it red, green, blue, or combinations. Think of the "Curves RGB" as a painters color palette and all the colors in their full spectrum are there to pick from. NOTE: Remember, you are mixing colors and the same settings will not give you the same results. It is all dependent on what you start with, as well as what you do. Try this; draw a black rectangle if you don't already have one and open "Curves - RGB". Now uncheck the red box and leave both green and blue checked. Slide the left side of the bar up mid-way and you will see that adding green and blue to anything that begins as black will give you teal or varying shades of teal. Now, please humor me and close the Curves window and click the rectangle command in the history window twice so you are back to a blank canvas and then draw a red rectangle, open "Curves RGB", uncheck red, leave green and blue checked and slide the left side of the bar up mid-way. Oh look, you get pinks, why? Because your starting from a completely different "control" or base color this time, red. And adding colors to red is completely different from adding colors to black, or blue or anything. Also, if you continue to slide those green and blue colors to the top, you will see that the rectangle turns white, why? Because you have just added the full value of all the primary colors red, green and blue, and an equal blending of all colors is white. (remember, we stsarted with a red rectangle and red was at full value already.) And, at any place along the way you can uncheck one of the boxes and which ever one you leave will shade your selection with more of that color as you slide to the top. Want more blue than green, leave blue checked, or vise/versa. Okay, one final exersize and example. On the "Background Layer", make sure it's white and set your line weight to 25, select red from the color wheel and draw a short, vertical line in red. Now select green from the color wheel and draw a short vertical line next to the red one. Now, do the same with blue. Place a rectangle selection around the lines, we want a bit of white but not necessarily the whole page. Your drawing should look like this: Now, go "Adjustments – Curves" and select the RGB tab as before. Leave only the red box checked. Slide the right side down to near the bottom and you will see this: Can you see and explain what is happening to the colors now? Lowering the red on the right causes something very strange here. It effects the white background as it should, it removes the red and leaves us with a blue and green combo that gives us the light aqua color we see. BUT, notice that both the blue and the green are unaffected. They look a little different but that is from the change in the surrounding background, the colors themselves are still just blue and green. To prove this, cancel out of "Curves" and then reopen it. Hit reset to make sure all is back to normal, then uncheck the red and green boxes leaving just blue. Slide the right side of blue down. What do you see? Go ahead, we'll wait. Hey! You in the back there, pay attention! Have you got it yet? That's right! The blue is being taken from the white and the blue, making the white more yellow because why? That's right, we're leaving the red and green in the white and red and green make yellow. And of course the blue is turning black because we're removing the blue from it. But the green and red are unaffected. Now why is that? Because blue is the chosen color, white is a blend of all colors, and red and green are basic, primary colors unaffected by the removal of blue. You can see this in the picture below: LUMINOSITY Luminosity is exactly what it's name implies – light. If you have a red selection and throw some light on it it's going to lighten up and look pink, just as if you took a flashlight and shone it against red construction paper. the area with the main focus of the beam of light will look anywhere from shades of pink to absolutely white depending on the intensity of the light. You can see that this was done by sliding the left side up. Conversely, if you slide the right side down, you take light away and put your red "in the shadows". The difference here from RGB? Your not removing or adding color, only light. Below, you can see that the red does not disappear, like it did in RGB mode. It only gets darker from the "shadow" being placed on top of it, the red is still clearly there: This is how the "Curves Luminosity" is able to produce chrome. It takes the gray and black and maybe white blend you make with your text as in barkbark00's tutorial, and throws lights and shadows on the different areas of the span of colors, brining out the black here, making the gray more white there, etc. And usually, from the blurs and other effects you apply, the happenstance of more black here with the gray, or more white here with the black, gives you the circular or odd shapes in the chrome rather than just straight lines. In effect, the light applied by "Curves Luminosity" is "bent" or appears to as it highlights the more black area in amongst the gray or white or vise/versa. And, playing with the position of the bar points will bring out more blacks, or more whites or grays. It's something to play around with until you achieve what you want. The key to making it chrome, or gold for that matter, is to give "Curves Luminosity" something to manipulate with your "blend" of Gaussian blurring, base color, and white and black drop shadows. Or you could even play around with the drop shadow colors as well. This was done with a base color of yellow, and drop shadows of black and a very dark yellow, and a few tweaks in the curves settings, otherwise, following barkbark00's tutorial as written. That is all I know about Curves for now. There is a ton more I'm sure. I learn more everyday, this is a very basic understanding of what happens when you make an adjustment. I hope it will help some of the new users to understand how "Curves" works.
    1 point
  24. Very very very late answer to @Frontcannon New option: Delete background:
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