Visual

Hi, JM and welcome to pdn I am not aware of any way to do this. It is embedded in the file. When the ico is made it can be 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128 bit or anything that the creator wanted to exclude. I can open icons with a paid program and see what is included.

For the future. Just add a layer for text. Write hints on what you did for each effect or adjustment. You just uncheck it when you need an image with your changes. When you do a lot of works, it's impossible to remember it all.

Careful about using online services and needing to upload something. You may give away the rights to your work when you do it. Read the terms carefully before using any online service.

Maybe. Does it matter if you lose a couple of pixels between every one? You will need to do some math. You can make a new layer and render gridlines after computing what you need. Select the black grid with wand and leave it selected. On the layers panel select the layer with your image and then delete the grid outline. You will see the grid selection on top of your image if you uncheck the top layer. Depending on the width of the lines you will not lose much. Then, you can select each image with rectangle select tool.

Nicely done +1. You will be asked to type the directions between each image and not place it on the images.

This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it I have and use brushes to do this, but for those who don't...here you go. Start with any image and make multiple duplicates. You need to roll/rotate and change each one slightly different. This will take some time to get enough. The final image did not have enough for my liking, but you should get the point. Here i made a new layer and used the random shape brush at 6 pixels and drew black as you see. You select one area with the wand, and with it still selected you you click on any of the 4 starting layers. Copy, and paste to a new layer. Use each layer for each of the 4 areas. This is an option for each broken glass section to help sell the effect. Select the area and make a new layer. Fill that layer with a white and transparent gradient. If you do each section a little different, your outcome may be more realistic. Otherwise, you can ignore or come back to this. Now you have each of your sections on layers. This is where i should have rolled each beginning image just a little more. Each section needs some edge cleaning with AA's < no swearing >istant. Now you select each layer and move them a bit. This makes the cracks vary is width. Drop shadow with settings like this, or your own. Do all sections with varying offset drop. Cleanup each drop layer with another AA's as shown The bottom layer is the same image untouched and now seen through the crack. Hit each layer with a light color or white as shown. Before this final result you can darken the bottom layer, add dents, noise or or whatever you like. Now, you can also go back to the white gradient from a few images ago and add some reflection to each of the 4 areas. This will help sell the final result as more realistic if that's what you're going for. As always, change it up and have fun.

This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it Start off with cloud plugin with white and secondary color set to transparent. Bottom layer is so you can see. I did a gradient color so you can see it is transparent. Wand it to try and capture the whitest areas to use as highlights, and hit control I to invert selection. Copy and paste that to a new layer. Feather the edges of the top layer to soften them. And adjust layer properties to your liking. On the lower cloud layer i hit wand a few times to until it had some areas of the darker zones not selected, then hit control I to invert it. Cut those out. I also chose to remove some additional areas for balance with the eraser. I used AA's assistant and then applied feather. Here i changed the background so you can better see things. You can stop at any point that you like your outcome. I chose to select all to one layer at a time and moved the bottom marker up to squeeze the clouds at the top half. Do the same amount to both cloud layers What you have now is the clouds at the top. For a sunset type of effect add drop shadow to the bottom cloud layer with red to amber. Your choice. I made additional adjustment with black drop shadow as shown. Finally coming to making a full range of color changes with the hue and saturation adjustments. They are not intended to look like real high def clouds. You may get something that looks a little more realistic with using less feather and feather. Good luck and have fun.

The reduce noise plug-in is one of your best tools. Once you learn the radius strength. I always start with 10 and .40 and work from there.

Hello jaccia, Do not try to merge layers, this sounds like what you may be doing. This combines layer properties and effects to the same layer. Flatten the whole thing. And yes, save a safety copy.

I am really wondering why it can't be a 24bit. What is the limitation for? An 8bit will look horrible and a 16bit not much better. For what purpose is it needed for? Clarification please. They came to your aid i see below me. I still would like to know why, but it's no real business of mine.

This was intended to be a beginners help, and not for the experienced members (move it?). Not taking any insult. Welsh's try did some changes and made it appear to be something like neon. Looks good.

Hard to say without seeing them. Try the AA's assistant plugin.

This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it Starting off with 3 lines of various widths in white on layer 2. The background is so you can see it. A second variation is to make 3 lines and fill them with a gradient with white and transparent. Make them less transparent at the top. This way the effect dissolves to nothing as it gets closer to you. Like this You can do this part various ways, but this is using the gradient bars. Make sure to set white as primary color, and set black to 0 percent transparency. Below has been changed with layer transparency to 160. Hit it with blur 1 time and feather like so. If you're observant you can see that i did it with solid black (see layer panel), but it works better with black at 0. Now, you must make it appear to be from a distance with perspective. Below i selected the middle streak with rectangle select and copied it to another layer. Rotated that layer to get it to look correct. Do it with another streak to another layer. See the history and layers on the side. Here, i have the streaks merged to the same layer. The background is separate. I select all, and reduced the streaks to about 50 percent of what they were. I used perspective again. Below is just duplicated the streak layer and flipped it vertical. Stretch out both layers so they kind of line up in the center and have the streaks fill from top to bottom. It will take some adjusting. Merge the top and bottom streak layers when you like it. Another option. I used the wobble plugin as shown. Then use drop shadow with a light color. This option used the stripes with white and transparent. Below has an thin wide ellipse added on layer 4 filled with white. I made 3 duplicates of it and blurred and merged them. The letters are so you can see what it can do. You can place any object on top. I got to thinking that you can actually add some noise to the streak layer. Why not try it with lower settings? Below i duplicated the combined streak layer and added sepia to it. Then you can change the hue and saturation any way you want. Make sure when you make a duplicate that you move it or stetch it out more. You do not want them sittng in the same spot. You can even flip the second layer. I did the same for the bottom layer and made a slight hue difference. For more advanced members. You can select one of the streak layers and fade it more when using gradient in transparency mode instead of color mode. Try a shape also. OK, go have some fun with it. Make some changes to this idea. You never need to follow it exactly. This shine layers actually have some transparency and you can see through it. You can see for yourself if you added a bottom layer with some kind of design or stars maybe?

I welcome all of your negative and good comments. This was done to help those with limited ability. I could have done some elements with an expensive program to render the letters in glass or a custom texture, but that would defeat the purpose. If only one person gets better, i have done well. Thank you, all. You succeed when you help others to become better than yourself.

This tutorial is available as a PDF. Click here to view or download it This tutorial has a lot of images. You will end up with something like this. I have some other things to help beginners. Frustration on how to do certain things is just part of learning. Here we go. You're going to make 3 layers. Always refer what is going on with the side panels. I made a large T in a dark blue on layer 2 with a bold font. Make a smaller T with a lighter blue on layer 3. You need to re-size the top T to fit inside the larger one. Use square select and move bottom shape carefully in a perfect line. You can use the PDN ruler as your guide. Square select the stem and drag the center marker on the bottom downward to complete the letter again. Do this until it looks correct. You will need to repeat on the sides. Below, you'll see that the darker blue is below the lighter blue. You can rectangle select the dark blue and stretch it lower until you get about the same amount of border as the top. Select the top layer T with the wand and bevel like shown. Use AA's twice with default settings to clean it up. The middle T is selected and beveled with alternate direction so it appears to sink. Again, AA's twice to clean. To give it a plastic effect use noise with settings shown on the top T and the bottom fill layer. At this point you can do a myriad of changes. Use Hue or whatever. I made it darker, but later i changed it. You'll see. Here you need to duplicate the top T. You need to select the lower of the two top T's to add the glow effect as shown. This makes the back lighting effect and brings in the depth effect of separation. Here is where i selected and changed the larger T to help with the glowing effect. I liked it better. You can do the same things i have done, or do what you want. Nothing is set in stone. Play around. Who's watching? If you don't like something, go back by deleting a couple of steps. Explore and have fun. Hopefully you can get some ideas that you can use.

This website provides what looks to be free textures. You read for yourself and decide. You can't come back and say i said it was ok. I thought there was a section for this, but couldn't find it. http://archivetextures.net/

I don't have a flatbed connected so mine is greyed as well. I would check device manager and see if you have a yellow triangle on the scanner. May be a driver problem or that since the scanner is connected by cable to the other computer, it is not seen at all because it is not directly connected and used with your wifi. It may be as simple as not seeing it on the local machine.

It's all about the images you want to add. It's simple. What is your ability? You can scan for royalty free images to place. Make sure they are royalty free. Stealing others ip is a crime. It's about using new layers to orient on top the images in the location you want. Resize, move and then flatten.

Welcome, skln. I am familiar with them from renderings myself. They do not use them on this forum as far as i know. They have a wealth of ability that reflects what pdn does only.

I found a good batch editing software. You can do a whole folder at one time. http://forums.getpaint.net/index.php?/topic/26624-found-a-program-that-does-batch-image-changes/?hl=batch

The easiest way for you to learn this is youtube. You need to unwrap and render a uvw ias a tga file and then place it on another layer with the textures you want. Go and search uvw maps at youtube.

Agree. Images are based on pixel information. There is almost no resolution information in this picture. Sorry.

Welcome to PDN I will start this because i see you are trying to add a texture to a unwrapped file. Most here don't deal with these things. First, tell me which 3d program, and how are you mapping it? Sperical, cylindrical or planar? I have no idea how the game you use is doing this. I think they do planar mapping. It repeats each half from one image. You may see a line from each half on the vertical. You should not need to worry about anything beyond the outline of the mapping. This is ignored. Make sure that you stretch or get a larger image. Everything inside the coordinates of the vertices will be used only. At least it should be. I do not know anything about second life.

Make about 5 layers. Just above the house put a smoke color you like. Above each other put some fire sections from a real fire image. You seem to be using blur a little heavily. Use smudge with a larger circle. Start to the side. Push towards the red/orange color and finish with an upwards stroke. This makes fire peaks. This is too hard with a small circle in smudge. Have each layer of the flames overlap. Blur and push around the smoke layer. It will be behind the other layers so you will need to move it farther. You may want to duplicate it and inset it between layer 3 or 4. This helps with depth. You can also just keep the smoke at the bottom layer and drop shadow each flame layer for depth using the color picker to match the smoke. Good luck. Try this [/url]"> You can select with the wand and while holding cntrl a couple red orange areas to copy and then past on a layer. Flip rotate for each layer of flames.

Compliment from atwell. Thanks. It's just my way. Stack object renderings that i make from tiff or png with premade backgrounds and work on it for a while. Then, save that version and keep the prior in case i wake up and do not like it anymore. There is always time to redo a mistake, when there was not enough time to do it when in a hurry. I'm going to show the nerd side. A basic tip for others that i should have shared already. I will make a layer and fill it with text describing the settings on how i made an effect. This way when i go back and look at prior things i don't have to try an remember. I work with no less than 5 programs (video, 3d, 2d), so it's hard to remember without making a script for it. Some i can, others you can't.